OverviewThe right gully is the most interesting and beautiful route of the Jochberg North Face.
You have to climb more of 400 meters.
It’s a short sequence of sheer ice falls and walking passages through snow and firn fields
The route is only possible to climb in cold winters with enough snow and ice.
Getting ThereFrom the last parking range on the right side, under the saddle behind a straight right turn,
cross the street and turn right, ascending through the wood.
When you follow the line up you will find easily the entry of the gully on the right side.
In the beginning you have to shovel through deeper snow to reach the climbable ice
The route follows a natural line.
Route DescriptionIt’s a short sequence of sheer ice falls and walking passages through snow and firn fields.
Mostly the ice steps are between 6 and 20 meters, the highest ice fall is about 30 meters in the middle of the route.
Partially you can find good drilled secure points. Normally, there are good possibilities for secure points, positioning ice screws and slings. Sometimes you can use pine tree branches for your positioning and to belay.
At the exit of the gully you have to walk the last meters towards the left side on the summit of the Jochberg.
Essential GearFull Ice climbing equipment,
two 60m ropes,
crampons and ice tools
External LinksA german ice climbing guide published by panico with the Jochberg routes and descriptions:
For actual route conditions hav a look at this swiss page: