Route Overview

Approach

The routes all can be reached from the Col Pradat refuge. You'll reach this coming up from Colfosco / Kolfuschg through Val Stella Alpina / Edelweiss Valley. How to reach Colfosco can be seen on the main page.

The following information can be read in much more detail in

Dolomiten Puez/Peitlerkofel
E.E. Striebitz
Rother Verlag
ISBN: 3 7633 1307 9

Route Description

As already mentioned on the main face the rock quality of Sasshonger is not as perfect as the pictures might let you wish. The rock is fragile and you have to struggle against a lot of debris. Morover the ledges that traverse the southface can get very slippery since a lot of dirt (clay, grass) has accumulated there. The escape route in case of bad weather runs along the largest of the ledges to Sasshonger Pass.

Basically there are two routes through the south face of Sasshonger. One of the two can be done in three variations. These variations use different ledges that traverse the south face.


1361 - Normal route
This is the climb through Edelweiss Valley and along the ferrata as described in Edelweissvalley / Val Stella Alpina Route.


1362 a/b/c - South Face
First Ascent: K. Berger, G. Franzelin, J. Kostner in 1900
Difficulty: IV+ (several pitches)
Height: 600m
Pitches: 18
Classical route with three variations along different ledges above the amphitheatre. These ledges get difficult in wet conditions due to the clay up there.


1363 - Southern Edge
First Ascent: J. Hruschka, R. Oberhammer, J. Schalon in 1921
Difficulty: V (one pitch)
Height: 700m
Pitches: 23
Route in good rock quality until it meets with the south face route. Upper part lose and broken. The combination of both routes (lower part along the southern edge, upper part following the classical route) is to be recommended

Essential Gear

Depending on the route you have to be equipped with lots of hooks, bolts and wedges. Bring 50m ropes. The longest route is 23 pitches. The descent along the normal route requires no additional equipment. It is a ferrata secured by cables which is very popular among us regular folks.