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Tuttle Creek to Mount Langley

Army Pass / Normal Route

Page Type: Route

Location: California, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 36.52330°N / 118.238°W

Route Type: 15 pitches of technical rock climbing

Time Required: A long day

Difficulty: IV+ or V, 5.10A

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- 3 Votes

Page By: asmrz

Created/Edited: Nov 11, 2002 / May 9, 2006

Object ID: 157312

Hits: 3514

Page Score: 83.79% - 3 Votes

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Table of Contents

Approach

Approach from the Stone House. To reach the Stone House, make a left turn on the only light at Lone Pine and drive up the Whitney Portal Road to Horseshoe Meadow Rd. Make a left onto Horseshoe Mdw.Rd and follow it to Granite view Rd. Make a right turn on the road. Drive the slightly uphill road till the only structure/dwelling around. Just before the structure another dirt road branches right and uphill. That road in some 2 miles ends at the unmaintained trailhead to the famous Stone House, a structure in the Tuttle Creek Canyon. About an hour walk gets you there. From the Stone House take the left, South fork of Tuttle Creek. An old, indistinct trail leads to Keyhole Wall ( see Secor's 2nd Edition). The trail ends at Keyhole Wall. Cross the creek to the south and climb up talus and slabs to the base of the North Arete.

Route Description

Miguel Carmona and I climbed this route in 1999 after looking at it for some 20 years while driving through Lone Pine to other Sierra destinations. The route follows the first, most obvious arete of the North Face. At the start, there is a large tower that separates the ridge. The route starts at the notch between the tower and the arete at a yellow colored wall. We build a cairn there, showing the start. The route follows the arete for 15 pitches on excellent rock and ends at the summit register. The route was first climbed in September 1999 and we bivied on it once. In July of 2002, it had a second ascent. The 2nd ascent party managed to climb and descend to camp in one long (16+ hours) day. The long, curving gully that goes down and east from the summit was used for descent. Please note: It takes about 2.5-3.0 hours to get down via this talus and scree slope. Not recommended if you might get cought in it at the end of the day. I would not want to descend this in darkness. I have posted TR and couple of pictures of the best pitches.

Essential Gear

Set of wires, Set of SLCDs (Friends), 3 small TCUs, many slings, 2x 8.5mm, 50 m ropes. The approach is free of snow by mid June. There is water at the top of the basin, flat spots for camp. Three day trip would be the norm. It takes about 6-7 hours to hike to the base.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.