To avoid hassle with permits, we approached the Grandstand (the base of the North Ridge) from Valhalla Canyon. The approach was a bit more technical, slipery and icy, but it avoids the crowds at Lower Saddle and the Valhalla Traverse. Just walk up the Valhalla Canyon and when under the Lower Black Ice Couloir, climb up avoiding the ice as much as possible all the way to the Grandstand. We actually never put crampons and ice axes on, but we almost did. The upper part of the approach, below Grandstand can be icy and very slipery.

Route Description

Since the classic North Ridge chimneys looked full of water and ice, we decided to climb the Italian Cracks variation. It starts just a bit left, around the corner and out on the north face. This is really a great crack climb variation and the character of this climb is completely different than the original North Ridge. The Italian Cracks are steep, finger to hand cracks at 5.7 or 5.8 dificulty. From the Grandstand, climb the first two pitches of the original Noth Ridge route to a large ledge. Move left on this ledge and find steep crack system. Three pitches go straight up on great crack climbing to the Second Ledge. At the Second Ledge you can traverse right to rejoin the standard North Ridge route at the corner. We opted to climb the face just a few feet right of the termination of the Italian Cracks. One pitch of 5.9 hand crack straight up, one pitch of 5.8 face, easing to a pitch of 5.7 face climbing which deposits you right on the summit. The late Leigh Ortenburger called this route "The North Ridge without the Chimneys" but somehow, the variation from the Second Ledge to the summit never made it into the Guide Books. In any case, this is a recommended option, if the chimneys of the classic North Ridge are icy or wet.

Essential Gear

50m rope, set of SLCDs, set of wires, extra carabiners, slings, ice axe and crampons depending on conditions, helmet, bivi gear.

Miscellaneous Info

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