| Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge Route |
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| Hinterer Brochkogel North Ridge   | 
| Page Type: Route Location: Tyrol / Oetztal Alps, Austria, Europe Route Type: Mountaineering Season: Spring, Summer, Winter Time Required: Less than two hours Difficulty: middle - up to 50°
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| Page By: Sebastian Hamm Created/Edited: Mar 18, 2007 / Mar 20, 2007 Object ID: 278853 Hits: 897 Loading... Page Score: 89.39% - 16 Votes Loading... Vote: Log in to vote |
Overview The north ridge of Hinterer Brochkogel is one of four ridges to the summit of the third highest peak in the Oetztal Alps and the fifth highest summit of Austria. It is a nice ice/snow climbing ridge up to 50° the whole year round. From the foot of the ridge on the upper Taschach-glacier it is a 200 m climb. The ridge requires 1 hour up. If you want to use a rope you have to schedule 90 minutes. The conditions are normally very good. (I did it in spring 2007, the winter with the worthest conditions in the last decades. The ridge was one half blank ice and one half good snow. But it wasn´t necessary to use a rope on this ridge.) If the north-west face of Hinterer Brochkogel has too much blank ice in the upper part at the ice nose it is very popular to shift to the north-ridge.
Getting There  Looking up the second part The trailheads for routes to Hinterer Brochkogel are Mittelberg in the Pitztal and Vent in the Oetztal. At Mittelberg you can choose between the long and the short way. The short way is using the cable-cars of the ski-resort of Pitztal-Glacier to Mittelbergjoch. Or you can hike through the Taschachtal towards Taschachhaus (4h). The other trailhead is Vent in the Oetztal. From here you can hike towards Breslauer Huette (2,5h).
From Taschachhaus over Taschachferner to the start of the north ridge (3h)
From Mittelbergjoch to the start of the north ridge (60-90min), this is also the common way for ski-ascents to Hinterer Brochkogel and Wildspitze in winter and spring
From Breslauer Huette across the Mitterkarjoch towards the start of the north ridge (2,5h)
Wildspitze and Hinterer Brochkogel with North Ridge |
View from Ski-depot |
Route Description  Wildspitze in the background The start of the ridge is at a height of approximately 3.400 m. The route starts at the bergschrund. Normally you have no problem to cross the bergschrund. The first part is nice climbing up to 45-50°. The north-west side of the ridge has maybe more ice than the north-east side. Stay at the snowy east side. Climb up to a big rock at the half of the ridge. Climb left around the rock and follow the sharp snow ridge (50°) up to a another big rock. On the sharp ridge stay on the north-west side. Climb right around the last big rock and follow the last snow passage to the summit of Hinterer Brochkogel.
Descent: The same way back or over the south-east ridge (normal route) to Mitterkarjoch (30min) and back to the start of the north-ridge (15min).
360° Summit view from Hinterer Brochkogel |
Essential Gear Ice up to 50° requires a rope, ice screws and two ice axes. (If the route is in good conditions you can climb without a rope and only with one ice axe.)
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