Multiplication Gully WI3+

Overview

Undisputed as one of the outstanding routes in the Adirondacks, this one climbs the deep, steep-walled slot on the right side of the big High Fall Crag.
Driving by, one gets only a glimpse into the recesses of the route.But it`s possible to get a better look by walking along the guardrail below the route.
There is a small pull out on the side of the road where 4 or 5 cars can be parked.

Getting There

The route is on the road that from Lake Placid goes to the White Face Ski area and the town of Wilmington. driving in this direction the route will be on the right side of the road about 1.5 miles before the ski resort.
The approach trail varies from year to year and it depends on the first party going up.

Route Description

The first pitch climbs past a large trio of cedars on the left then up to a wide shelf with small trees on the right for a belay.Staying back well back here keeps the belayer out of the line of ice fall.
Pitch two is long and excellent, more interesting if you attak the vertical pillar to the left just after starting, instead of going right; than going to the crux chimney at mid height(a N.3 Camalot is helpful here in thin conditions), before the challenging exit above(challenging for the thin ice encounterd in this section often and because of few demanding moves).
Descend with two ropes rappel or walk around toward Wilmington(awful).

Essential Gear

6-8 mid size ice screws, 2 60M double ropes (for easier rappel), 2 technical ice tools, quickdraws carabiners and cordelettes for a mulipitch route.In early season a set of nuts and a few mid size cams, including a N.3 BD C4 Camalot can be necessary.

External Links

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Images

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