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RPC's Tieton Cragging

 
RPC\'s Tieton Cragging

Page Type: Custom Object

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Object Type: Custom List

Object Title: RPC's Tieton Cragging

 

Page By: rpc

Created/Edited: Jan 13, 2010 / Apr 26, 2010

Object ID: 589026

Hits: 2060 

Page Score: 79.04%  - 10 Votes 

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Overview

 
Ride The Lightning
Ride The Lightning
 
Mush Maker
Mush Maker
 
Ride The Lightning
Ride The Lightning

This page will serve as a "personal logistical center" for our Tieton River, WA cragging outings...part of the ongoing effort to organize my own submissions to SP. Work in progress...

We've been averaging about 2 trips per year to Tieton with the first one being somewhere around 2002 I think. Though close to Portland, the area generally has a slightly worse weather than Smith Rocks in the winter and once spring arrives much of it is closed due to nesting (usually reopens in late/end of April...usually!). This therefore puts some limitations. From our limited experience, we find the climbing there to be of the sort where you jam your upper appendages into cracks while often using the textured basalt on the sides of the crack for the feet (vs. straight in jamming). The basalt itself has much different feel to it than say Vantage (not too far), Smith's Lower Gorge, or Trout Creek. The irregular cracks feel a bit funky when placing pro (at least in our experience and esp. in the beginning).

Royal Columns

 
Jam Exam
Jam Exam
 
Royal Columns And Tieton Rocks
Royal Columns
 
Cactus Love
Cactus Love
 
Inca Roads
Inca Roads
 
X Factor
X Factor
 
Mush Maker
Mush Maker

This was the cliff we visted during our 1st trip to Tieton (2002?). Very nice with plenty of easy to moderate lines (<5.10). We've been back a couple of times and have always enjoyed ourselves.




List of our routes:
Jam Exam (5.9, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Fun and straightforward hand jams.

Cactus Love (5.9, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) I recall a crux near the top?

X Factor (5.8, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) Shirley led it and I think it was good.

Cutting Edge (5.7, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) I led it when I just started climbing & I think at that time I had to work for it.

Western Front (5.3, 4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars) Hard to believe there's a 5.3 crack climb on these basalt columns.

Rough Boys (5.5, 1 of 4 stars1 of 4 stars1 of 4 stars1 of 4 stars) Long time ago - don't recall much.

Slacker (5.4, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) Ditto.

Good Timer (5.4, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) Same - long time ago & don't remember too much.

Level Head (5.6, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Ditto.

First Blood (5.8, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Wide crack with climbing made easier by the highly featured/textured rock outside the crack.

Mush Maker (5.7, 4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars) Very nice, low angle jam crack.

Little Known Wonder (5.7, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Did it during our first visit there - it was a great time back then I recall.

Inca Roads (5.9, 4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars) Area classic & deservedly so.














Photos:


The Bend

 
Ed s Jam
Ed's Jam
 
Cruel Harvest
Cruel Harvest
 
The Bend - West
The Bend - West
 
Ed s Jam
Ed's Jam
 
The Bend
Approach
 
Peace, Love And Rope
Peace, Love And Rope
 
Salmon Song
Tiers

I'd guess this is the place for 5.10 trad climbs in Tieton (though we have not been, seems Wildcat Wall is the place for 5.11 cracks). Probably the shortest approach & some sweet ass climbing, including some two-pitchers. Really nice - I LIKE.




List of our routes:
Local Knowledge (5.10b, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Ran the two pitches as one. The 5.10b section on the first pitch was like 2 moves long while the upper 5.9 finger crack kept on giving...a lot. Great fun line though and - if I recall - combining pitches will eat up about 55 meters of your rope.

Seizure (5.10b, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) Good, straightforward ...till near the top. Save some go-juice for final mantle moves.

MX (5.10a, 4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars) Great climbing! No real surprises - just nice positive finger locks & smeary feet. Shirley onsighted it and enjoyed herself doing it!

Peace, Love and Rope (5.9, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) Very good. Don't recall much as Shirley led it.

Ed's Jam (5.8, 4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars4 of 4 stars) Very good!

Salmon Song (5.10a, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Fun, fun, fun! Fun looking roof and straightforward climbing.

Tiers (5.9, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Just like the 10a neighbor to the left.

Treatment Bound (5.10a, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) I found it HARD for the grade!

Cruel Harvest (5.9, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Very good I think but I don't recall much.

Pure Joy (5.10c, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) Shirley led and whipped off at the crux. The piece held but then later when she climbed past it (yellow Alien?), it jut fell out...good times.

Hallowed Ground (5.9, 2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars2 of 4 stars) Shirley led but I also don't recall much about this line.














Photos:






Moon Rocks

 
Straight Talk
Straight Talk
 
Straight Talk
Straight Talk
 
Moon Rocks
 
 
Moon Rocks
Moon Rocks
 
Dirty Thrasher
Dirty Thrasher

One trip there with Martin Cash on a particularly chilly day in late winter. Martin led some OW & I struggled up Straight Talk (5.10a, 3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars) which back on that day I found pretty damn hard (fist crack). Martin led Dirty Thrasher (5.9 OW) that day & we all TR'd some other line. It was a cold day.


















Photos:

Goose Egg Mountain - Ride The Lightning (5.9)

 
Ride The Lightning
RTL
 
Ride The Lightning
RTL
 
Ride The Lightning
RTL

This was our first route on Goose Egg Mountain and we thought it was pretty good (3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars3 of 4 stars). In fact, the first 3 or so pitches were very good, especially that dihedral/crack pitch. The upper part of the route features some loose rock and topping out you realize that you've been climbing directly underneath what is essentially a hanging boulder field. We chose to hike off down the gully (climber's far left when viewing the mountain). Bit painful, very loose of course, but overall OK (though next time we rapped & would do that again!). Nice and accurate topo for this one can be found online courtesy of the FA-ists.


















Photos:


Goose Egg Mountain - Dirty Sanchez (5.8)

 
Dirty Sanchez
DS
 
Dirty Sanchez
DS
 
Dirty Sanchez
DS

Our second route on Goose Egg Mountain. The best thing about this one is the name. Mostly so-so climbing with a few nice positions (1 of 4 stars1 of 4 stars1 of 4 stars1 of 4 stars). Several notches worse in the fun factor than RTL. This time we rapped down the rap line (recommended). Good topo by the FA-ists can be found in the Tieton River Rocks guidebook by J. Yoder.


















Photos:

Spring!

Ride The Lightning
Ride The Lightning

Images