By the time we reached the Col de la Lire Rose it had been slightly snowing and the wind didn't show any sign of fading. Decided to rope up anyway and started climbing the SW ridge. Although the chimney to bypass the steep tower on the left was tricky due to the fresh snow, we managed quite well by belaying the whole part to the shoulder. From there on we entered the glacier and had good snow conditions. Also the final rock ridge was quite ok.
In descent everything went much better than expected, due to the fact that most of the fresh snow was molten. Smooth descent and long walk back to Mauvoisin. It took us about 14hrs from hut to summit to car.
Jurgen - Sep 7, 2014 11:18 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2014
Normal route in a day from Mauvosin
Started at the parking (near hotel Mauvosin) at 5 am and reached the summit 4 and half hours later. It's always a bit scary to move by yourself through the night, so I was happy when the sun came up. The route is not very difficult, but the rock can be pretty loose at some parts. I think it is a great outing with a beautiful view from the summit.
Flachlandtiroler - Sep 4, 2008 6:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008
Not so quiet...
Normal route is not that quite and lonesome as written here or in the (german) guidebooks... nearly two dozen climbers made it from the Chanrion hut to the summit that sunny day.
Carefree trip which also can be done in one day from Mauvoisin or with a bivouac at the Tsofeiret lake.
Mauvoisin dam and tunnels are quite impressing; so does the nature in the meadows above the lake.
Route Climbed: west ridge, from SW cwm Date Climbed: aug 1985
Quiet (well, a little thunderstorm the night before) bivouac nearby lac de Tsofeiret. Then up the cwm leading to col de Lire Rose, and here straight up eastward on the rocks to join the right bank of upper Ruinette glacier. Short cut to 3710 m. notch then up on excellent greenish rocks to the top. Alone ! mid-august...alone ! With the exception of a "Mirage" fighter of the Swiss Air Force suddenly roaring over the summit no more than 100 feet. I came back along the Ruinette glacier, towards Brenay gl. right bank moraine, then Tsofeiret....and Mauvoisin dam car park.
il.rocciatore - Jul 30, 2019 9:15 am
Route Climbed: SW Ridge Date Climbed: july 2019By the time we reached the Col de la Lire Rose it had been slightly snowing and the wind didn't show any sign of fading. Decided to rope up anyway and started climbing the SW ridge. Although the chimney to bypass the steep tower on the left was tricky due to the fresh snow, we managed quite well by belaying the whole part to the shoulder. From there on we entered the glacier and had good snow conditions. Also the final rock ridge was quite ok.
In descent everything went much better than expected, due to the fact that most of the fresh snow was molten. Smooth descent and long walk back to Mauvoisin. It took us about 14hrs from hut to summit to car.
Jurgen - Sep 7, 2014 11:18 am Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2014
Normal route in a day from MauvosinStarted at the parking (near hotel Mauvosin) at 5 am and reached the summit 4 and half hours later. It's always a bit scary to move by yourself through the night, so I was happy when the sun came up. The route is not very difficult, but the rock can be pretty loose at some parts. I think it is a great outing with a beautiful view from the summit.
Flachlandtiroler - Sep 4, 2008 6:56 am Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2008
Not so quiet...Normal route is not that quite and lonesome as written here or in the (german) guidebooks... nearly two dozen climbers made it from the Chanrion hut to the summit that sunny day.
Carefree trip which also can be done in one day from Mauvoisin or with a bivouac at the Tsofeiret lake.
Mauvoisin dam and tunnels are quite impressing; so does the nature in the meadows above the lake.
Claude Mauguier - May 14, 2005 9:38 am
Route Climbed: west ridge, from SW cwm Date Climbed: aug 1985Quiet (well, a little thunderstorm the night before) bivouac nearby lac de Tsofeiret. Then up the cwm leading to col de Lire Rose, and here straight up eastward on the rocks to join the right bank of upper Ruinette glacier. Short cut to 3710 m. notch then up on excellent greenish rocks to the top. Alone ! mid-august...alone ! With the exception of a "Mirage" fighter of the Swiss Air Force suddenly roaring over the summit no more than 100 feet. I came back along the Ruinette glacier, towards Brenay gl. right bank moraine, then Tsofeiret....and Mauvoisin dam car park.
fabrizior - Oct 1, 2003 4:32 pm
Route Climbed: Normal from Cabane de Chanrion Date Climbed: August 1967Forgotten moutnain but with nice views on Wallis.
We were lucky: very good weather conditions.