Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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46.99010°N / 11.81010°E |
Route Type:
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Glacier and rock climb |
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Time Required:
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Most of a day |
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Difficulty:
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D, UIAA III, IV and a passage V- |
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Approach
S ridge (4:15-4:45 h)Starting from Rifugio Porro, you must follow the same trail of the normal route. Hiking, some times with crampons, on the eastern Neves glacier, you arrive at 3216 meters to the snowy saddle separating the glacier and the Trattenbachkees (Vedretta di Dentro). At this point you can leave crampons (if used before and if you decided to return following the same route) but it is time to bring with you the rope.![To the saddle]()
![Me on the South ridge. -...]()
![Climbing the South ridge in...]()
Route Description
Rated by an italian guidebook as D, UIAA III, IV and a passage V-, in my opinion it should be less. Moreover, talking with a local “bergfhurer” he classified the route as mostly III with a passage of maybe IV. The S ridge begins from the snow saddle at 3216 meters. Climbing the beautiful and safe rocky ridge you overcome the first easier section. The second part is more complicated with a crux classified by the guidebooks as V- (it didn’t seem to me, when I climbed), represented by about 15 meters of a smooth wall. It is not immediately intuitive the route to be followed in the final part. It is better in some cases go around the ridge on the right.
Climbing in about 2:45-3:15 hours you arrive to the summit where the view is absolutely gratifying. You can descend by the SE normal route or by the most enjoyable, from my point of view, south side, directly on the Oestlicher Nevesferner (Ghiacciaio Orientale di Neves). Caution is needed overcoming the terminal crevasse (bergschrund), generally deeper and steeper than the other one climbed by the normal route. Ask to the owner of the Rifugio Porro about the condition of the bergschrund.
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Essential Gear
Crampons and ice axe (to be used on the glacier), helmet, harnesses, rope (60 meters).