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S wall - Videsott
Route

S wall - Videsott

 
S wall - Videsott

Page Type: Route

Location: Trento, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.15900°N / 10.88060°E

Object Title: S wall - Videsott

Route Type: Trad Climbing

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.5 (YDS)

Difficulty: III - IV UIAA

Number of Pitches: 10

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: Gabriele Roth

Created/Edited: Dec 30, 2007 / Jan 14, 2008

Object ID: 369045

Hits: 1974 

Page Score: 78.27%  - 9 Votes 

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Overview

 
Cima Margherita
 
When, from Rifugio Pedrotti, you start walking toward Rifugio Agostini (Ambiez valley), you enter a wide carsic plan and after few tens of minutes, once passed below the rocky bases of Brenta Bassa, you can see, on the right side, the profile of a very smart grey, yellow and black wall that grows (if you're lucky) straight into the blue: you can't do but wishing to climb it !

And, after climbing it the first time in a fine sunny day, condicio sine qua non to enjoy a relaxing and amusing climb, each time you pass here you feel the need to touch those solid and warm rocks.

On this wall 3 main routes, different as difficulties but similar as engagement, are really among the best middle difficulty routes of the central range of Dolomiti di Brenta, from right to left they are :

  • Videsott route - III-IV UIAA
  • Giordani crack - III-IV-V UIAA
  • Detassis crack - III-IV-V UIAA
  • The wall is about 300 m high, in its middle a ledge divides the low part, made of grey and black not vertical rock, from the higher part, yellow and black, vertical and overhanging.

    Getting There

    for these routes the best starting point is the Rifugio Pedrotti (2491 m)

    you can get it starting from Madonna di Campiglio (1515 m)
    - by car or taxi-service to Rifugio Valsinella (1513 m).
    - on foot : path 317 - to Rif. Casinei,
    - then path 318 to Rif.Brentei - 2 h walk from Vallesinella
    - 1 more hour, along the wonderful path of the Bocca di Brenta to reach the Rif.Pedrotti

    From Rifugio Pedrotti follow the signs to Rifugio Agostini and, in about 30-40 minutes you arrive at the starting points of the routes following some tracks in the scree.

    Route Description - first part

    To get the ledge in the middle of the wall you can choose between two different approaches :
     
    Cima Margherita : the low...
     
  • the easiest is the slanted crack that, starting from the right border of the wall allows to pass over the first steep part and then goes on toward left crossing an intermediate ledge. (II-III)

  • the finest is to start climbing directly in the center of the wall (about 100m left of the point of the previous one) finding the best route to get the ledge : you here can climb almost everywhere with the same difficulties (III-IV)

    I suggest this solution that is much more amusing

  •  
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     

    Videsott route

    From the first ledge climb toward left, ascending a system of dihedrals to get the second big ledge.
    Once here up directly to get a cracked dihedral and along it to a small ledge.
    Pass over a detached small blade and go on along another cracked dihedral slightly toward right to another small ledge.
    Left of a white spotted rock go along a chimney-dihedral to arrive to a good shelf.
    Straight on along a very fine wall that leads directly to the summit
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     
    Cima Margherita S wall
     
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     
    Cima Margherita - south wall...
     


    Descend

    From the summit, staying a little to the N side, scramble along the ridge toward the Cima Tosa (W) paying some attention to the debris, to get the saddle between the Cima Margherita and the pillars of the ridge of Cima Tosa.
    Once at the saddle you must scramble down (very easy) toward the scree to get the path.

    Essential Gear

    40 m long rope and classic gear for classic middle difficulty routes
    good supply of water if the weather is sunny

    Images

    Cima Margherita - south wallCima MargheritaCima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita : the low...
    Cima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita - south wall...Cima Margherita S wall