Sajkovici route: 5h or 12km by car + 3h
Sajkovici (710m) is village or group of scattered hamlets just at the foothills of Dinara mountain, bellow Troglav peak. More detail on how to get here find out on the main page. Junction from the main Bosansko Grahovo (36km) – Livno (39km) road is just at the spot where main road is about to turn away from the foothills of the mountain to cross over the Livanjsko Polje field to its opposite side (Barosi hamlet). If you are coming by bus this is your starting point and 5-6h await you. Continuation is the same.
Macadam road is parallel with the mountain. After some 2.5km, there is a junction, where you turn right. Now you are heading straight toward mountain, Troglav is high above. A kilometer or so away is Gubin hamlet which touches the mountain. There is a church and graveyard in the hamlet.
Now you have a choice. You can leave you car here or try to get as high up as possible with it. There are spots which can be in not so good condition so it is uncertain how far you will go. If you make it all the way you can spare almost 2 hours. Try and leave car when or if road becomes bad. From Gubin hamlet is 4 to 5 hours to the summit.
From Gubin hamlet continue on the road, which goes right, around the hill and enters a valley. I don’t know in what shape the marks are right now. Path cuts few bands of the road. If you spot them, follow. If you don’t than continue to follow the road. After few kilometers of straight section there is left band where road changes direction. Just before this turn, at the spot where wooden sheds (960m), marked path comes from right and ascends towards left. Few hundred meters after the bend path comes from left and continues ascent towards right. If you still didn’t spot them soon you’ll reach a junction where our road turns sharply right. It is 1.15 – 1.30h from Gubin till this point.
Next part of the road is probably only for jeeps so leave a car on the bend. Soon there is another sharp bend, this time left one. Road ascends gradually, cutting along the steep forested slopes. From the spot where path reaches the road, from right, it is another 50 meters to the spot called Troglavska Vrata (the door of Troglav), which is just passage between two large trees. Here path leaves the road (2.15h from Gubin).
Through high forest you reach Poparica Bunar (1260m), a source of water. Some 100 meters of vertical distance, above the source is important junction of trails! From here you have two options. One is classic route to the summit while other is called Meri, which climbs quite wildly towards the summit, through and by the edge of glacial cirque and northern cliffs of Troglav. For ascent I would recommend a classic route while Meri is more suitable for descent.
You turn left. Now path ascends very steeply through the forest, on some spots the angle of the slope is over 45 degrees and you are almost forced to use arms. Soon, at around 1600m, you break through forest line and onto steep grassy slopes. Rising wildly above you is Middle Troglav (1790m) while deep bellow is Livanjsko Polje field and our starting point. At 1700m you reach a Zelenika saddle between Mali Troglav and Troglav peak (1913m), whose mighty, 300m high north face, appears in front of you. Bellow is glacial cirque strewn by huge boulders and scree. Take few moments to enjoy the view on this beautiful place.
By the edge of the cirque path continues to ascent, steeply. In some 20 minutes you’re on the small grassy pass. From left we are joined by Bracev Dolac route, from Croatia. Here path turns right, steeply over the grass onto one of Troglav heads. View expands towards Croatian side of the mountain. In some 10 minutes, over a panoramic ridge, by the edge of the cliffs, you reach highest head on the peak.
Descent via Meri route
From the summit path continues towards NW and descents onto small pass. Here it turns sharply right, going straight down very steeply, over large stones, by the edge of the cirque with few climbing spots. As you reach a saddle (1620m) between Troglav and Zrvinic (1731m) path turns sharply right. From here is beautiful view on Middle Troglav and cliffs of Troglav. Path descends steeply, in sharp bends, sometimes through rare beech trees. It is slippery on some spots as path hangs over the bolder strewn bottom of the cirque. When you reach it marks follow the wild canal which leaves cirque. Soon they cross to the right side into beech forest and begin to descent towards junction of paths, which is 1.30h from the summit. If you would go up this way it is around 2.30h to the summit.