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San Matteo Climber's Log

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icypeakFrom Refuge Berni  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 7, 2013


Was on this mountain the previous year and got caught in a little avalanche that buried me to my chest. This time, it was a perfect day and a super climb. A beautiful summit!
Posted Aug 4, 2013 4:12 pm

rggA nice traverse  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 27, 2012


We started from Rifugio Berni near the Gavia pass, ascended over the Dosegu glacier and reached the summit over the NW ridge. After that, we followed the east ridge for quite a while before turning north towards the Branca Hütte when we had almost reached the Bivacco F. Meneghello. Turning north earlier would be shorter, but as there wasn't all that much snow on the glacier, we wanted to avoid the big bergshrund and the crevassed area on the northern and northeastern slopes of Punta San Matteo. As a result, it became a very long day.
Posted Sep 14, 2012 6:21 am

andrea.itski tour  Sucess!


Classic ski route, complitely alone
Posted Mar 27, 2012 2:17 pm

patascentSki Route from Branca Hut
Date Climbed: Mar 22, 2010


Almost made the summit. Accidently cut my finger with a knife trying to remove fabric from my fly zipper...big mistake...cost the summit although visibility was deteriorating quickly anyway. I left quite a mark in the snow.
Posted Mar 30, 2010 3:17 pm

mulidivareseNorth side  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2009


From Rifugio Branca after a stormy night.
At 5 the fog was still rising, but then a bit of new snow covered the ground. With the skies on our back till the glacer, then a long way under the north slope. We reached with the ski the terminal crivass, then we climbed the direct to the top.
The weather improved during the ascent, and it was sunny and very nice on the top.
Valerio, Matteo and Giacomo
Posted Jun 22, 2009 1:05 pm

stesteNormal route from Refuge Branca  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 11, 2008


Summited in a clear and pleasant day. Some navigation problem in the lower part of the glacier dei Forni as the melting made difficult crossing the rivers. The cross on the summit was down on the rocks as the winter snow damaged the base. Think that one week later, during a celebration in memory of Capt. Berni, it has been repaired and now stands again on the top of the mountain.
Posted Aug 31, 2008 4:58 pm

archilocoRoute Climbed: Normal from Ref. Branca  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 20, 1990


Route Climbed: Normal from Refuge Branca.
Posted Nov 6, 2007 4:39 am

landrovalgreat freeride!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Mar 19, 2006


Wonderful day, perfect snow: the route from refuge Branca was almost crowded!
Posted Apr 4, 2006 2:49 pm

simoRoute Climbed: Vallumbrina Date Climbed: august 2004  Sucess!
Easy rock crest from battaglione Ortles (reached from Passo Gavia) to San Matteo across Punta Vallumbrina, Cima Villacorna e Monte Mantello.
Posted Dec 26, 2005 6:07 am

albertofangaRoute Climbed: from Berni hut Date Climbed: August 2001  Sucess!


A beautiful montain and good climbing. An open large crevass almost at the top made it more challenging. Some light snow while approaching the peak.
Posted Nov 6, 2005 8:50 am

Claude MauguierRoute Climbed: SW ridge Date Climbed: oct 1988  Sucess!
From bivacco Battaglione Ortles (got there from Pejo), across P. Vallumbrina, C. Villacorna, Mte Mantello. Then I turned towards the north snow ridge and got to the top along this. Back through passo degli Orsi. Fine weather all along.
Posted May 13, 2005 5:37 pm

LorenzRoute Climbed: Traverse from Tresero to S.Matteo Date Climbed: June 2003  Sucess!


I climbed this summit during the 13 summits tour. Reached the top at 18:30, beautiful weather, stopped at the Meneghello bivy for the night.
Posted Oct 1, 2003 2:48 am

Mathias ZehringRoute Climbed: normal (ski) route from Branca hut Date Climbed: 1995 - 2003  Sucess!

Mathias Zehring

August 3rd 1995

with our group of the alpine club during an instruction course. Great weather, good conditions - but no pictures because my film was treated false at the photo shop.

April 22nd 2003

nice trip, some danger of crevasses and ice fall and one passage to carry the ski. We were not patient enough and left the summit after half an hour in the fog with no sight. 10 min later there would have been clear sky... So I will have to return some time.

Posted May 17, 2003 12:28 am

marco979Route Climbed: NORMAL ROUTE Date Climbed: August, 2000  Sucess!


With my friends Massimo and Franco early in the morning (about 4 a.m) in a record time have reached the peak. Unfortunately, on the peak there were many clouds so we haven't see a lot. But for all the trip we have climbed with good weather. About Franco, some problem about his crampons. When we were coming back, we have found two old war weapons!
Posted May 4, 2001 4:15 am

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