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Page Type: Route

Location: Wallis, Switzerland, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.06740°N / 7.86500°E

Object Title: SE-Ridge

Route Type: Basic Snow, Basic Rock

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: WS, II

Route Quality: 
 - 8 Votes


Page By: kletterwebbi

Created/Edited: Jun 17, 2002 / Jun 5, 2003

Object ID: 156590

Hits: 5746 

Page Score: 74.74%  - 6 Votes 

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There are two possibilities to start:

1. Start at the Metro Alpin : bad idea because of the late start you are forced to. You reach the Metro Alpin using the cable car from Saas Fee.

2. Start at the Täschhütte : the better choice. You reach the Täschhütte from Täsch at the Mattertal (the approach is described at the Alphubel Mainpage)

In both cases you have to reach the Alphubel Joch at first. From the Täschhütte there is a path crossing two creeks and leading to the alphubel glacier. At the beginning it's the same route as for the Rimpfischorn.

When reaching the Alphubel glacier you first go up straight forward. When you reach a kind of plateau at the glacier there are two possibilities:

a) The common way goes up in a big right turn-left turn-loop that avoids a region of big crevasses.Finally the upper, plane part of the glacier is reached.

b) On the left side of the plateau there is a small rock ridge. You may go left and cross this ridge.Then you go up at the left side of this ridge close to the rocks of the ridge to the upper, plane part of the glacier. There a) is joined. This way is steeper and you have to look for some tricky crevasses but it might be somewhat faster.

Finally you reach the Alphubeljoch.

Route Description

From the Alphubeljoch simply follow the SE-ridge. The lower section can be passed directly at the ridge or somewhat beside the ridge. In the middle part of the ridge there is a steeper, sometimes icy section (about 40°).You stay at the ridge all times. Following the ridge leads to the summit plateau of the Alphubel.

Essential Gear

Crampons, ice axe (one), 1 or 2 ice screws, rope

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


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