OverviewThe Northeast-Spur is well known and often frequented route on the Galenstock. The route is very varied. A glacier approach, a 200 meters rock climb(most I-II, some passages III) on the spur and, last but not least, a beautiful snow crest which leads to the summit. From the summit you'll have a beautiful view over the Uri Alps and Bernese Alps. There are a lot of different climbing grades used for the ascent (between III and IV, and 4a by J. von Känel). I think that the climbing doesn't gets harder than III+. In combination with the well placed bolts, the climb isn't very demanding. So, if you seek for an adventures and lonely climb, this isn't the best route to climb. But, if you're looking for a beautiful mixed climb on one of the best mountains in Switzerland, I can recommend this one: Swiss Alpine Plaisir at it's best!
Getting ThereIn General:
Basicially the Furka pass road is the only starting point for the route. The Furka pass road is famous Swiss mountain pass which runs between Andermatt (East) and Gletsch (West). The SE-spur is often climbed in one day from the Furka pass road, which is a bit longer than an ascent from the Sidelen Hütte.
To the Sidelen hut:
1. From Refuge Furka (2430m.), 1.20 hours. Follow a well marked path which starts at the north side of the road, to the Sidelen hut. The path can be covered with snow at the begin of the summer.
2. From the parking (2279m.), 1 hour. Follow a well marked path at the east side of a small stream. Cross the stream halfway and continue to the hut.
To the SE-spur:
From the hut traverse below the Hannibal-tower and reach the Sidelenglacier. Ascent along the glacier at the west-side of the spur. Just before reaching the base of the SE-face of the Galenstock, go NE to reach the start of the rock spur. The best start is probably left of the ridge, below the wide chimney which leads to a small notch on the spur. About 1 - 2 hours from the hut.
Route DescriptionSE-spur WS/WS+, III+ (mostly I-II):
The start of the spur is the least attractive, because of loose rock. Head slightly right to the notch on the spur. From the notch the climbing gets better and better. Reach the first rock step (III), bolts. After a short easier section you'll reach the second rock step (III+), again a lot of bolts. Continue along the ridge which gets less steep at the end.
At the top of the spur (P 3365m on the map) you'll catch up with the normal route from Hotel Belvedere. Climb the snow slope and the final snow crest to reach the flat summit of the Galenstock.
About 2 - 3 hours from the base of the spur to the summit.
1. Descent along the normal route of the Galenstock towards the Rhone glacier and Hotel Belvedere. This is the easiest way and can be recommend for those who have not much experience in rappeling.
2. Rappel down the Galengrat at P 3252m. There is a very good equipped rappel at this point, which gives you the possibillity to head back to the Sidelen hut or your car. There are several options, common is a three time rappel (3 x 50 meters!).
Essential GearGlacier gear, helmet, single rope or double rope (depending on which way you use for your descent!), enough slings. No extra rock climbing gear needed.
Ruth + Bernard Gisler
Tel Hut: +41 887 02 33
SAC Map: Nr. 1231 Urseren 1:25'000
SAC Map: Nr. 255 Sustenpass 1:50'000
Clubführer Urner Alpen. Bd.2, T. Fullin & A. Bahnholzer, ISBN: 3-85902-222-9
Schweiz Plaisir ALPIN, J. von Känel, ISBN: 3-906087-24-7, see: www.filidor.ch to order.
Other usefull links
Digital map - www.mapplus.ch
Weather forecast - www.meteoschweiz.ch
Time schedule train/bus - www.sbb.ch