OverviewA pretty burly Tuolumne obscurity. Everyone I have seen on this climb has been making loud noises pulling the crux roof and even Peter Croft tried a couple different ways to pull the crux and placed some pro :-)
A good day when combined with the Eurotrash approach.
Getting ThereUse standard Mariolumne approach or climb Eurotrash (3 pitches, P1 and P2 easy and tighly (too tightly) bolted, about 5.9 on P3) to the large ledge from which Serrated Edge, Middle Earth and Hobbit Book start.
Serrated Edge is on the left side of the wall, a huge right facing corner. You will know it when you see it.
Route DescriptionA total of four pitches, could be done in three pitches (connect P1 and P2) with a 60m rope but rope drag would be pretty bad.
P1: Start up the obvious right facing corner. Difficulty to about 5.9. Follow the corner for approx. 100 ft to a fixed nut and a sling. There is another sling before this suggested belay spot, make sure you get to the sling with the nut. Belay from here helps with rope drag on P2. Good pro.
P2: The money pitch (10.b, some suggest 10.a, I would just say HARD). Continue up the right facing corner to a roof. Traverse to the right under the roof to a thin crack that widens to a hand crack above the roof. Pull over the roof while making loud noises and beach-whaling. Or without noises if you are good. The roof has good protection. Belay approx. 30-40 ft above the roof.
P3: Continue up the right facing corner to another, this time smaller roof. Traverse right under the roof. Follow the crack as your rope length allows, belay where comfortable.
P4: Easier (5.7/5.8) but still interesting pitch takes you to the top of Mariolumne Dome. Generally follow the crack, picking the way of least resistance. At some point in the upper third of the pitch traverse a bit to the right to a fixed nut (other, probably harder, options exist).
Reid's book has a topo but we found the route to be pretty self-explanatory, at the least the first three pitches are very obvious.
The first three pitches have generally good hands and poor feet. I had to take my helmet off for the crux moves on the P2, it also helps NOT to have a gear sling on on P2 as you are trying to pull yourself up over the roof on your belly (at least I did).
Descent via the standard Mariolumne walk-off.
Essential GearDouble cams up to #2. Single cams up to 3.5. Set of nuts. Slings to manage rope drag.
High pain threshold helpful but can be substituted with good technique.