Sick for Toys, 5.10+, 4 Pitches

Overview/Approach

A unique (challenging slab) and remote route by Red Rock standards.  Based on the few ascents recorded to date as well as the multiple FA parties, the grade on this route might not be completely settled.  Five of us (mostly local) split into two roped teams, multiple members taking varying leads, and the consensus leaned towards 5.11-.  I have led plenty of 5.11- slab climbs in Jtree and felt the crux moves on Sick for Toys were comparable.

The original FA included only the first two pitches and used a ramp out right to access the stellar crack of pitch two.  However, a bolted direct line has been added since and is more in keeping with the difficulty and kind of climbing you find on pitches #3 and #4.  The direct 1st pitch’s crux is fairly early on.  Overcoming the multiple roofs higher on the 1st pitch were below the grade.  The 2^nd pitch is one of the finer finger crack moderate leads in Red Rock.  The 3rd pitch involves a stout slab crux with intricate gear.  The 4th pitch possesses a stout slab crux as well near the end of the route.  All anchors and pro bolts were in satisfactory condition in 2020.  Members of our group replaced the bolts on the mid (plumb/independant rap line) rap anchor in 2020.

Hike well past the start for Epinephrine in Black Velvet Canyon.  Stay straight vs taking the slot canyon left for Western Spaces wall.  After approximately 20-30 minutes beyond the base of Epinephrine, look for bolts running up a steep slab on your left.  The first pitch turns back left after the initial slab to gain access to the overlapping roofs.  The wall slab above is a large one and impossible to miss on the left side as approaching. The 2^nd pitch crack is also easy to spot on the left side of this massive slab wall while on approach, but is somewhat hidden if looking directly above the first bolts.

Route Description 

1^st Pitch- 135’-5.10+/ A direct start was added to the original route and is much more in keeping with the grade and type of climbing for the entire route.  Climb over the first overlap and clip a bolt.  Make a slab move at the grade, trending right. In short order, make a true traverse right and slightly down to a faint foot edge (crux of the pitch).  Then mantle up via positive fingers.  The climbing eases as you trend up and back left and pull two roofs, neither of which are problematic.  The most challenging of the two roofs has a bolt right over the lip with positive fingers.  A full body mantel gets you up and over this roof and then climb straight up to the bolted belay with a comfortable small ledge.

2^nd Pitch- 110’-5.8/ One of the best pitches at the grade in Red Rock and most will consider it sandbagged.  This is an excellent finger crack pitch.  Follow the right leaning seam up to the next fixed belay which is semi-hanging.  This pitch consists of sustained (at the grade) small and micro gear climbing with a few rests in between.  There are MP.com posters who consider this pitch 5.10-.  I definitely believe it should be rated 5.9.

3^rd Pitch- 100’-5.10+/ Three of the pitches on this route are considered by varying parties posting on MP.com as potential 5.11- pitches.  And some opinions differ which pitch is the crux, #3 or #4.  I was the only one of four individuals to make a successful attempt to lead this pitch and this was among a set of accomplished 5.10/11 leaders.  There are several slab moves above the first bolt via some tricky gear that perhaps make this the crux section of the route.  However, the 4^th pitch, in my opinion, has the true crux of the route near the finish via pure technical slab climbing.  After the first bolt, continue up the intermittent seam and as it peters out with one small off-set type pin scar available, make committing moves (crux), feet out right on steep slab and hands mantling off of steep slab to dyno to the positive hold over a small roof.  Mantle on up to atop the small roof feature and continue straight up clipping another bolt, then traverse down and right on thin edges to reach the closed shallow right facing corner.  Climb this corner, which is a little run out, to the fixed rap station above.

4^th Pitch- 90’-5.10+/ Climb up and left through a bolt.  Grab a jug just above the roof and traverse right to mantle it.  Continue up a seam, climbing through another bolt at a cruxy slab section requiring unique foot work (ankle twist) to get through the crux move or two clean.  Easier ground trends up and right to a fixed rap. 

Climbing Sequence

Descent

In November of 2020, bolts were replaced on the mid rap anchor straight down from the top anchor.  A single 80m line tied off just makes it down the entire wall on a plumb line from atop pitch #4 to give you an idea of the length of the rap.  Double ropes or a tag line are in order.

Essential Gear

The main gear call is for the easiest pitch (#2) of the route.  The other three pitches rely on bolted slab and small to micro opportunistic gear placements.  Single from #.1 to#2 plus a set of wires.  Set of offset cams and/or more small and micro cams in general.  Route is well shaded. Double 60m ropes for the rap.