OverviewThe ski route to Pizzo Ferrè is one of the most beautiful classic ski tour in Val Chiavenna and the whole Lombardia region.
The approach is very confortable. It starts at the height of 1900m from the village of “Montespluga”, and the route is almost completely exposed to the north side, which guarantees good snow until late spring.
The mountain is in itself very good looking. It has a small glacier on the north side, and sharpened rocky ridges on all three sides. On the west ridge, passes the normal route in summer and winter too. In winter this ridge requires ice climb skills and the use of the rope, axe and crampons.
More or less in the middle of the path, at the height of 2700m, is placed a very comfortable wood made bivouac named "Val Loga" (name taken from the valley in which it is located), built two years ago to replace the old bivouac in aluminum called "Cecchini".
The route runs along the entire length of the "Val Loga". For the return you can possibly descend into the adjacent "Val Schisarolo". The descent in this valley finish few kilometers away from the starting point of Montespluga. There are not any bus services along this part of Val Chiavenna.
Getting thereThe hamlet of Montespluga is placed at the head of the Val Chiavenna, not far from the Spluga pass 2114m that connect Switzerland to Italy.
From Milano take the road SS36 "del Lago di Como" - Monza/Lecco/Colico/Chiavenna/Passo dello Spluga
From Bellinzona or from Lustenau take the road E43 - the road to the pass starts from the village of Splügen
The routeFrom the village of Montespluga, follow the yellow signal that indicates the summer path to the bivouac “Val Loga”. Here the valley is wholly flat. Point towards a bridge that get over the river.
Follow the valley on the left side (your side). The slope increase in steep soon.
The shape of the bivouac is visible on the top of the head of the valley. Just point there. Once the bivouac is reached the impressive north side of Pizzo Ferrè is visible and its homonymous glacier.
So, first of all, traverse the smooth flanks of “Cima di Val Loga” (on your right), and then ski down for more or less 100/150m into the Val Schisarolo.
Remember that you have to get again those meters during the return, or otherwise you have to ski down in this valley. This loss of meters, extends the route of 200/300m.
After this part you are on the glacier. Few crevasses around there; not difficult to avoid.
Point to a notch clearly visible on the right side of the west ridge. The attainment of the notch is not demanding. The difficulties start from here. Once left the skis on the notch, climb the first easy rock. (a suggest: start from the notch with axe and crampons even if the ridge seems easy, because the harsh passages are after and put the crampons there would be difficult and too late).
Climb a steep snow slope on the right side, and get the edge of the ridge again. Some big slick rocks are avoided with a very exposed traverse on the north side. The traverse takes to a short couloir long 10/15 meters but very steep. The slant is around 50°/55°. No possibility of secure. The couloirs leads to the previous ridge.
From there few meters and the top is achieved. For the descent follow the same route.