OverviewThis nice linkup of 4 quality crack pitches in the Smoke Bluffs area of Squamish offers some very nice climbing, and can be mixed with some additional single pitch routes in the area to provide an enjoyable full day of climbing.
Getting ThereTake Highway 99 to just north of the Chief turnoff, then turn right on Loggers Lane. Drive about a mile then park in the parking lot on the right hand sign (obvious sign). Approach on the trail using the signs to the "Smoke Bluff Wall". The first pitch starts on the first portion of this cliff that you come to.
Pitch #1 - 5.8 - Climb straight up the obvious well climbed hand and fingercrack in the middle of the formation. Belay at the bolts above. This pitch is called Mosquito in the guidebook. 90 feet
Pitch #2 - 5.8 - Climb directly up the groove with a fingercrack above and belay at the bolts next to the trees. This pitch is called Phlegmish Dance in the guidebook. 60 feet
Walk accross the ledge to the left until you encounter the obvious fingercrack.
Pitch #3 - 5.10b - Climb the beautiful, perfect fingercrack directly up to the ledge above. The crux is right at the start and 5.9 above that. This pitch is called Jabberwocky in the guidebook. 80 feet
For the last pitch you have 2 options, Wonderland (5.9) or White Rabbit (5.10b). We chose the latter, though the former is more commonly done as part of the Connection.
Pitch #4 - 5.10b - Jamb, stem, and lieback up the steep corner with a thin fingercrack. Belay at the bolts above. 35 feet
Now walk down the obvious trail back to your packs.
Essential Gear1 set of cams to 3"
Doubles in the finger sizes are nice for pitch #3
1 each nuts