Snaz, 5.10+ variation, 10 Pitches

Overview/Approach

The local Teton climbing guide gives the Snaz a IV alpine grade which is misleading to say the least.  Cathedral Buttress is essentially a multipitch rock climbing wall, harboring no alpine climbs.  At most, any climbing destination would give Snaz an alpine II grade or none at all really.  That being said, Snaz is no doubt the premier moderate classic rock climb in all of the Tetons.  It follows an obvious weakness, with zero need for fixed pro, that splits the middle of Cathedral Buttress.  Two modern standard variation pitches lend to this classic status:  Snazette and Cousin Leroy’s Uncle.  To climb the Snaz minus these two variations would seem foolhardy for the effort of the approach.  The Snazette, 5.10, is defined as a finger to hand splitter on the left wall after the first two 5.7 pitches up the main corner.  As previously published, it is divided up into two pitches, the 2^nd of which is a short traversing pitch back to the main corner.   These two pitches can easily be led as one by the competent leader.   Cousin Leroy’s Uncle, 5.10+, is an addition/finish to the route up and right near the top of the buttress, utilizing an under cling to layback finger roof.

The first pitch is referred to in the local guide as an approach pitch.  It is a 5.5 corner with a tree growing out of it below a broad ledge, directly below the main weakness that is the Snaz.  There is an A-Frame alcove just to the right, where you can hang your packs, protected from marmots and rain.  From the ground, one can reach the base of this weakness in one 70m rope length. The next two pitches (5.7) are easily combined (70m rope) and the leader can angle left to the base of the Snazette splitter to set up the next lead.  As before mentioned, it is easy to combine the Snazette pitches into one as you return to the corner at its top.  The next two pitches (5.10-) are also easily combined with a competent leader extending his/her pro.  The 5.10- grade applies to a few meters of pulling a bulge near the end of these combined pitches (the original crux).  Near the top there is a relatively short chimney/OW pitch to a ledge below Cousin Leroy’s Uncle.  Cousin Leroy’s Uncle is full on for the grade: a powerful layback required on fingers as you transition from an under-cling roof to short finger corner.  It eases up for the final half to a nut and slung rap nest.

The local guide lists the Snaz as an 8-pitch route.  If you count the approach pitch and do the Snazette variation (listed as two in the guide), then it officially becomes a ten-pitch route to the top, which can be rapped with a single 70m rope if you take the Cousin Leroy’s Uncle variation.  If you combine pitches as outlined below, it becomes a 7-pitch route including the variations.

Park at the Death Canyon trailhead in the park.  You can make it there with any vehicle but there are bumps in the road.  There is a rest room at the trailhead.  Hike up Death Canyon trail for over three miles to reach a climbers trail to the base of Cathedral Buttress.  After the initial ascent from the parking, the Death Canyon trail practically descends all the way to Phelps Lake to access the mouth of the canyon, then starts ascending long switchbacks to the top of the drainage.  Near the end where it levels off, there is a climber’s trail on your right that takes mini switch backs up to the base of Cathedral Buttress.  Most approach beta, MP.com particularly, make this approach seem more complicated than it really is.  Don’t worry about counting switchbacks or “corners”.  Just hike past multiple buttresses on your right, on the trail.  The last one is the largest, this is Cathedral Buttress.  Snaz is quite evident from the trail, the major weakness in the middle of the formation.  On the trail, you hike well past this weakness and are looking to catch a climber’s trail ramp back east under the formation, just before you top out of the canyon itself.

Route Description

1^st Pitch- 200’-5.5/ Climb a ramp located left of a corner with a live tree (2022) located above an alcove below the major weakness in Cathedral Buttress above.  The ramp leads right to the easy corner.  Climb it, pass a slung tree (2022) at top, and continue up the large slopping ledge above to the apex below the major weakness. 

2^nd/- 3^rd Pitches- 210’-5.7/ It makes sense to combine these two pitches as they follow each other directly up the weakness with no move unique enough to discuss.  Angle up and left at the end of the third pitch to set up a gear belay below the obvious finger splitter above, located in the left wall away from the major corner/weakness. 

4^th- 5^th Pitches- 150’-5.10/ This is the first variation (Snazette) to the original line and offers the best climbing of the day.  Start out in the finger splitter which is slightly overhanging.  Place gear at will. The 2^nd half of the splitter is more hands than fingers and obviously much easier.  No reason to split up the pitches as suggested in the local guide topo.  Rather continue up and right at the end of the splitter and eventually traverse a black rock ledge back right into the main corner and a fixed rap.

6^th-7^th Pitches- 185’-5.10-/ The first 70’ belongs to the cruiser 6^th pitch (5.7), staying in the corner.  The remaining 115’ belongs to the original crux pitch of the route, a fun and steep wide section.  To surmount this section, start out by climbing the wide left side of a large block/flake.  MP.com and the local guide act like higher up is a roof pull, but it is more of just a wide climb through steep blocks.  The Teton Rock Climbs modern guide calls this roof 5.10-.  Stay left when in question to a fixed rap. 

8^th Pitch- 100’-5.7/ Continue up the corner except for a 15’ traverse left around a nose.  Use long extension, climb the left side of the nose and return to the corner and land a significant ledge with a wide corner up and right. 

9^th Pitch- 100’-5.7/ Climb the wide right facing crack/chimney up to its slung rap (2022) top.  Continue across the large ledge to build a gear belay below the obvious weakness. 

10^th Pitch- 100’-5.10+/ Cousin Leroy’s Uncle is the name given to the large roof up and right.  Climb easy ground to this roof’s left end and follow edges and under clings out right past two fixed (2022) pieces.  The roof takes a variety of gear.  Layback (crux of the day) out of the roof to fingers straight up in a steep right facing corner.  Finish on blocky terrain to a fixed wire rap (2022). Stand on a chockstone to belay.

Climbing Sequence

Climbing Sequence

Descent

Much is made to do about needing double ropes or having to walk off if you finish.  In reality, it is rather straight forward to rap with a single 70m rope in 2022.  Rap from the top of #10 to the slung rap atop the wide portion of #9.  Rap to the top of #7.  Rap to the top of #6.  Rap the Snaz’s 4^th pitch that you skipped if climbing the Snazette.  Rap to the top of #3.  Rap to the top of #2.  Rap to the broad ledge.  Walk the rope down to the slung tree above #1.  Rap to ground.

Essential Gear

70m rope.  Single from micro to #4.  Doubles from #.3 to #3.  A few offsets or wires.  Mostly 60cm slings.  Route gets sun by noon in July (although SW facing, the corner shades itself for a bit longer). Water is easily attained from the drainage next to Death Canyon trail right before you exit it onto the climber's trail.