Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: May 11, 2003
Fred Spicker and I climbed the Southwest Couloir in perfect conditions, under clear blue skies. The route had lots of consolidated snow in it, and steps kicked all the way up. Could be done with trekking poles and no crampons if needed. Was a nice easy 45 to 50 degree snow climb. We stayed on the summit for about 30 minutes, admiring the amazing views. On the way down, we encountered a group of 7 beginners putting in a running belay. We were bored, so we went over and climbed Blue Lake Peak.
Route Climbed: SW couloir Date Climbed: April 26, 2003
An awesome sun drenched day. Climbing with Tom breit we got an early start and on the summit by around noon. Saw only one other party of 2 ahead of us. Conditions lower down were just steep, crusty, avalanche consolidation. Higher up in the crux slot there was more of a melt-freeze cycle going on and a bit harder ice. Views on top were hard to beat.
Route Climbed: Southwest Couloir Date Climbed: 5/10/97
A short 3 hour approach followed by an incredible 700 ft of solid 40-50 degree snow with crampons and ice axe. Best climb of year by far. The final 20 feet was a 4th class boulder hop at the edge of a 20ft thick cornice. Views?! Wow. What a day. With Matt Wacker.
"Got tight last night on absinthe and did knife tricks. Great success shooting the knife into the piano. The woodworms are so bad and eat hell out of all furniture that you can always claim the woodworms did it."