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South-East Spur / Voie Soleil Levant

 
South-East Spur / Voie Soleil Levant

Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: South-East Spur / Voie Soleil Levant

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: TD V, mostly IV

Number of Pitches: 18

Route Quality: 
 - 1 Votes
 

 

Page By: wouterdev

Created/Edited: Aug 11, 2009 / Dec 8, 2010

Object ID: 539560

Hits: 1852 

Page Score: 70.83%  - 1 Votes 

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Overview

The Voie Soleil Levant, or Sunrise Pillar, is the classic and most ascended route on the SE face. It consists of roughly 18 pitches of enjoyable alpine rock climbing. Just very few (dubious) pegs are sticking, so prepare to climb every pitch using your own protection.
Although most of the rock of Mont Collon is of bad, and sometimes horrible quality, the SE face consists mostly of acceptable and sometimes good granite. However, this is only true as long as one stays on one of the numerous spurs of the face and not in the couloirs alongside.

The Voie Soleil Levant is an excellent and adventurous climb on good rock in a very alpine environment.

Getting There

The route is can be reached in 1.5 h from the Bouquetins Bivouac (glacier and moraines).
The Bouquetins hut is a 4 h walk from Arolla (the closest village).


Arolla:

There are a camping, hotel, shops and a big parking lot.

Route Description

Description:

Follow the spur. Go left and right of the first three towers. The Fourth (free standing) tower has to be climbed until halfway, on a slab that is difficult to protect, then traverse it on the right side. After this, the route becomes more like wall than a spur. Also the route finding becomes harder. Keep in mind that the end of the difficulties are at a ramp on the right side above you.

Protection: very few pegs. possibilities for own protection are good

Descent: West ridge - Cabane des Vignettes (3.5 h)

Distances (spur only):

550m difference in height
700m climbing distance (roughly)


Time required:
1 - 1.5 h for the approach
6-7 h for the spur
3.5 - 4 h for the descent


Literature:

For an accurate and more useful description read the following literature:
1. SAC fuhrer "Hochtouren im Wallis" or SAC Clubfuhrer "Walliser Alpen 2"
2. KeepWild Climbs, Best Of (has a detailed topo that was very helpful during our ascent)

Essential Gear

Glacier Equipment
Small nuts
Cams size .25 - 1 (a total of 6 or 7 cams will do)
Helmet
4 long slinges
a couple of (long) quickdraws


External Links

Additional pics:

http://www.atrex.ch/2002/album/visuAlbum.php?albumId=264&PHPSESSID=f45fc85f07746c045060410c882e1662

http://www.4000desalpes.eu/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71&Itemid=63

Images

upper part of the soleil levant routeeasy scramble to the summitupper part of the soleil levant routeend of the difficultiesMont Collon SE facesummitupper part of the soleil levant route
near the exit of the route