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South Face (Dimai)
Route

South Face (Dimai)

 
South Face (Dimai)

Page Type: Route

Location: Dolomites, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.51110°N / 11.73450°E

Object Title: South Face (Dimai)

Route Type: Rock climb

Time Required: Most of a day

Rock Difficulty: 5.6 (YDS)

Difficulty: IV-

Number of Pitches: 13

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: mvs

Created/Edited: Sep 10, 2003 / Dec 7, 2006

Object ID: 158774

Hits: 5422 

Page Score: 74.92%  - 5 Votes 

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Overview

 
Following the traverse pitch
Following a traversing pitch.

The Dimai/Eötvös route on the Grohmannspitze is a sunny moderate classic of the region. It's especially good for late season fall days, because it's not too long (13 pitches, with a reasonable degree of simulclimbing more like 7 or 8), and is situated on the south face. The "sting in the tail" for this climb is the long rappelling and downclimbing descent, which would be difficult in the dark. Snow on the north-facing descent slope may also complicate things.

Approach

From the Sellajoch take the path (number 4-557, called "Friedrich August Weg" ) to the Forcella Rodela. Then follow a climbers path bending right and up to the base of the Grohmannspitze. It may take 1 1/2 hours from the Sellajoch to the base of the route.




Route Description

Overview

 
The S-face of the...
The dotted line indicates the route.

At the right border of the S-face a system of cracks and chimneys is visible. Left of this there is a prominent black water groove. The main thing is to reach the base of this water groove. Then the route winds up somewhat left of this groove until the big chimney at the middle of the face. After a short traverse (the crux pitch) a kind of a ridge is used to reach the summit.

The lower part

At this part the base of the black water groove is reached. Some easy scrambling up the lower part of the wall on easy rock (UIAA 1-2) and on some poorly visible paths brings one to a bolted stance (difficult to find). There the climbing starts.

The upper part

From the bolted stance climb up a small gully left of the water groove. At the top of the gully climb somewhat left to another bolted belay. No contiunue lefthand for about 20 meters then start a traverse right direction the black water groove to a belay with some old slings. From there continue the traverse for some few meters then climb stright up until a area of easier rock is reached. Climb up straight foreward up to the begin of the prominent chimney at the center of the wall (belay with pitons).

Now climb a crack at the left side of the chimney up to a belay at a ledge very close to the black water groove. There the crux pitch starts: a exposed traverse to the left brings one up a secondary ridge.

Up now the climb is simple straight foreward: follow the ridge to a plateau with a lot of rubble and continue on easy rock up to the summit.

Essential Gear

Helmet, rocks, friends, double rope

Descent

Refer to the Normal Route description. Definitely print out the topo there and take it with you. You'll make several rappels and do some downclimbing. A single 60 meter rope is sufficient for the rappels, and I would recommend this because the rock is somewhat "grabby".

Images

The S-face of the...Dimaï route - descentDimaï routeDimaï routeDimaï route - descent