4.5 hr car-to-car, 2 hours climbing. Sunny and rather warm in Seattle all day so we figured the rock could be in, despite winter and all. It was warm and fun rock climbing. The last 1 mile of the 4 mile hike was on snow, and microspikes would've been useful.
I have a few updates to the route info: the "large tree" that's fallen 10m to the left of the start is quite rotted and small by now, but still present. The hangers at the rap station are still shiny stainless, but the bolts (either 3/8 or 1/4"?) are very rusty and I chose to back them up for our anchor.
I also have a few comments on the route details, particularly grading. My partner and I both felt that the route was harder than 5.7, perhaps 5.7+ or 5.8. The class 2-3 scramble at the top was most certainly a 3-4 scramble. Also, I am a relatively novice trad climber, and found the placement of gear to be a bit tricky as well because the crack is dirty and irregular for the first third of the climb. The rock quality isn't great and large chunks can come out easily, although its geometrical holds are fun to climb on. We opted not to sling any horns for the second rap down, and instead down-climbed off the east face. There was deep snow there.
abogaard - Feb 27, 2014 1:59 am - Hasn't voted
2/26/2014 TR/route updates4.5 hr car-to-car, 2 hours climbing. Sunny and rather warm in Seattle all day so we figured the rock could be in, despite winter and all. It was warm and fun rock climbing. The last 1 mile of the 4 mile hike was on snow, and microspikes would've been useful.
I have a few updates to the route info: the "large tree" that's fallen 10m to the left of the start is quite rotted and small by now, but still present. The hangers at the rap station are still shiny stainless, but the bolts (either 3/8 or 1/4"?) are very rusty and I chose to back them up for our anchor.
I also have a few comments on the route details, particularly grading. My partner and I both felt that the route was harder than 5.7, perhaps 5.7+ or 5.8. The class 2-3 scramble at the top was most certainly a 3-4 scramble. Also, I am a relatively novice trad climber, and found the placement of gear to be a bit tricky as well because the crack is dirty and irregular for the first third of the climb. The rock quality isn't great and large chunks can come out easily, although its geometrical holds are fun to climb on. We opted not to sling any horns for the second rap down, and instead down-climbed off the east face. There was deep snow there.