South Face Direct

Approach

Hike up Mt Si to the base of the south face of the haystack using either the current Mt Si trail or the old trail.

Route Description

This route starts in a shallow crack center almost dead center of the face, about 10 meters right of a huge dead tree laying on the scree at the base of the face. While looking at this route the crack goes up about 20 meters, then splits. One crack goes left along an arete, while the route jogs very gently right and up along a flake/crack system. Follow the crack for one complete pitch and you will end up at a couple of shiny new bolts with rap anchors above a huge, low angle chimney. Careful with ropework as this chimney is full of loose stuff that could be knocked down on anyone below.

Here is is a class 2-3 scramble to the top and walk off, or an easy rap down. It is two wraps down using a single 60M rope. Rap from the anchors, staying on the arete left of the chimney to keep from knocking the loose scree off. About 20 meters below the anchors is a sling anchor tied around a huge horn. From here it is a full 60M wrap to the bottom.

Essential Gear

60M rope
Large cams 2-4 Inches. I used just a couple things smaller than one inch. Nuts are not real usefull, I only used one. A couple 2-4 inch hexes would come in handy though.

Miscellaneous Info

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Images

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