South Flank

Approach

See the main page for the directions to the trailheads. From the north follow the signs to Peralba and Hochweißsteinhaus. From the hut take the trail No 41 towards Peralba which crosses the ridge at Hochalpl Pass.

From the South take trail no 132 to Rifugio Calvi. From there take trail No 140, later trail No 41 to Hochalpl pass.

Route Description

  - Start altitude: 2278m (Hochalpl Pass)
  - Summit altitude: 2479m
  - Prevailing exposition: SW
  - Type: 30min along trails, 1h 30min along steep slopes
  - Protection: mostly unmarked, no protection

Effort: 200m of altitude gain, 1km distance to the summit (from Hochalpl Pass) form the trailheads you hike for 7km with an altitude difference of roughly 1000m)

Power: 2 - hike and steep scramble

Psyche: 2-3 - the climb along the slope appears very exposed

Orientation: 1 - easy though not marked

From Hochalpl pass descend for some 600m into the Valley of Rio Oregone. To your right a steep chimney opens (East Face Route) and after the pillar which bounds you reach a large couloir. This couloir almost reaches the top of the southern fore summit.

At the base of the couloir you have to scramble among boulders and scree. The terrain is rocky but somehow easier to scramble through than the upper grassy part of the climb. On top of the rocky part the slope gets slightly more shallow and you have to find the route along the grass by yourself. We found it easiest to climb the left (north-western) side of the couloir. There is a small dent in the slope which leads to the pass between the fore summit (were we stopped) and the eastern main summit.

To reach the eastern summit from the little pass you have to climb another very steep and exposed grassy slope. To reach the western summit, descend onto a ledge which leads around the eastern summit on its northern side and from there head up still another very steep grassy slope.

Essential Gear

Hiking gear may not be sufficient but there are no places were you can place protection. For the lowest part of the couloir a helmet might be a good idea because of the lose rock.

Images

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