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South Ridge

South Ridge

South Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Oregon, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 44.67440°N / 121.7978°W

Object Title: South Ridge

Route Type: Basic snow/rock climb

Time Required: A few days

Difficulty: Fourth Class Scramble

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes


Page By: Hammer

Created/Edited: Sep 21, 2001 / May 26, 2006

Object ID: 155790

Hits: 12021 

Page Score: 72.08%  - 2 Votes 

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The South ridge is accessible from the Pamelia Lake Trailhead. It is not visible from the trailhead due to being blocked by the Southwest Ridge.
At the trailhead make your way to Pamelia Lake (2.5) once reaching the lake skirt to the north of the lake via the rail to intersection. Go left (North) until it intersects the PCT. Follow the PCT through several switchbacks (4.5) until you reach Shale Lake.

Route Description

From Shale Lake head northeast toward the South ridge and try to gain it via a saddle just north of Goat's Peak. Once the ridge is obtained follow the ridge until it joins with the Southwest ridge at 9800'. Above move around and up the right side of a rock ridge and scramble up easy rocky ground to the Red Saddle. The Pinnacle has two summits, the North and South Horns. The North is slightly higher. From the Red Saddle move down slightly and traverse 250' across steep snow/ice until you reach a small shoulder of rock. Continue North around the pinnacle and climb the west slope which is easy fourth class. If you do not move around far enough the face from the shoulder is rated at 5.1.

Essential Gear

Depending on Party size you will need 2-4 pickets, ice screws and rope to protect across the traverse. Crampons are necessary as well as an Ice axe throughout the year due mainly to the traverse.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Late season traverse from Red...Scrambling up the Summit...Mt. Jefferson from Shale LakeSecuring a fixed line across...The Red Saddle