South Ridge

Approach

*Please note that I did not climb this route myself. I reached the summit via the NE Face and only observed this route. If you have information that could improve this description, please share it with me...

Many climbers traverse the ridges from the Oberwalder Huette (2972m) to the summit of the Bratschenkopf before descending to the Heinrich-Schwaiger Hut. This allows several "big" mountains to be climbed. The Klocknerin and the Bratschenkopf, along with the Wiesbachhorn, are all well over 11,000 feet.

To get to the Oberwalder Hut, climbers start at the Franz-Josef-Haus on the NE flank of the famous Pasterze Glacier (from here many climbers opt to summit the highest mountain in Austia, the Grossglockner). But for those looking for a traverse, the route heads up towards the Hofmans Hut, past the Elschberg and up towards the Burgstall. This is the location of the true starting point, the Oberwalder Hut.

From the Oberwalder Hut, snow and glacier travel takes the climber over the Bockkarscharte (Bockkar Pass, 3040m), across the Northern Bockkar Glacier (Bockkarkees) and up through the Keilscharte (Keil Pass, 3194m) which is located between the Middle Baerenkopf (3358m)and the Great Baerenkopf (3396m). The traverse now leads along the Western edge of the Great Baerenkopf before crossing to the Gruberscharte Biwakschachtel (a type of shelter, 3100m). Many groups sleep here.

Route Description

From the Biwakschachtel there is a basic ridge climb up to the summit of the Klocknerin (3445m). A descent onto the Bratschenkopf Pass leads East onto the South ridge of the Bratschenkopf. From here it is a snow slope to the summit. Most groups then descend the NE Face to the Heinrich-Schwaiger Haus.

Essential Gear

Most importantly, plenty of experience traveling over glaciers. Can you get someone out of a crevasse? Rope, crampons and axes. Don't assume the easy nature of the above description will apply when you are there. Ice, snow, fog and thunderstorms can turn this route into a maze.

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.