I agree, go with a super light rack. There is really only two short sections that most will place pro. It's implied in your post, but you want a few slings. Slinging horns is quick, easy and usually bomber.
PellucidWombat: what did you place in the crux crack?
Just past the Snowbird Lodge, take the upper entrance to the 2nd skiiers parking lot. There is a shack just past the entrance, and the turnout is right across the road from the rocky headwall of the South Ridge. Parking restrictions were from 12am-8am, but there were people parking there before 8 when we were there.
Return:
A shuttle would be the most convenient, with one car parked at the Alta Ski Lodge if descending via Cardiff Pass.
This is described for a winter route - there may be better variations for the summer route.
After crossing the highway, head diagonally right to the far end of the cliffs to meet up with a small chute. Head up this chute as it cuts across the cliffs. (Moderate Snow or class 2)
Then:
For an easier variation, stay in the chute until you are forced north, and follow the open snow slopes to the first notch in the ridge. (Moderate Snow or class 2)
For a harder variation, at a flat area interrupting the chute, pick your way back to the right up through the cliffs. Eventually you will reach the prominent east spur of the ridge. Follow this spur to the first notch. Depending on one's comfort with exposure and mixed climbing, a running belay or simul-climbing might be a good idea for the upper part. (Class 4)
From the first notch, climb the class 3+ chimney out of the notch, and follow the ridge north. At one point there is a fun crack traverse (5.3-5.4?) that stays close to the ridge. You can bypass this by dropping down 15 ft and ascending a dihedral below it (Class 3+). Beyond this there is a large open slope. Head up this to reach the second notch.
From the second notch you can see the remaining steep part of the ridge, as well as the crux pitch near the top. I believe the crux pitch to be rated 5.5 (same as that given by an Exum guide climbing the ridge the same time as us), but for a less pure ridge climb, you can drop down 30 feet or so to the west to easier climbing to bypass it.
The crux pitch is about 15 feet long and consists of a smooth, holdless wall, with a couple of crimp holds higher up, a small roof, and a 0.5-1" crack beginning to the left and ascending diagonally to the right, up through the smooth slab. The chock stone in the top of the crack is solid. It is fairly easy, though, and you can reach up and put pro in the crack and the cockstone before beginning any serious climbing.
Beyond the crux there is a little more exposed ridgeline left, and then an easy stroll across broader slopes to the summit!
PellucidWombat - Feb 28, 2005 10:27 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentSummer
Winter
GlennMerrill - Mar 3, 2005 6:13 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI agree, go with a super light rack. There is really only two short sections that most will place pro. It's implied in your post, but you want a few slings. Slinging horns is quick, easy and usually bomber.
PellucidWombat: what did you place in the crux crack?
PellucidWombat - Mar 3, 2005 10:19 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentI'll need to look at my chocks, but I believe that it was a #5 Wild Country nut.
PellucidWombat - Feb 28, 2005 10:30 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentApproach:
Just past the Snowbird Lodge, take the upper entrance to the 2nd skiiers parking lot. There is a shack just past the entrance, and the turnout is right across the road from the rocky headwall of the South Ridge. Parking restrictions were from 12am-8am, but there were people parking there before 8 when we were there.
Return:
A shuttle would be the most convenient, with one car parked at the Alta Ski Lodge if descending via Cardiff Pass.
PellucidWombat - Feb 28, 2005 10:44 am - Hasn't voted
Route CommentThis is described for a winter route - there may be better variations for the summer route.
After crossing the highway, head diagonally right to the far end of the cliffs to meet up with a small chute. Head up this chute as it cuts across the cliffs. (Moderate Snow or class 2)
Then:
From the first notch, climb the class 3+ chimney out of the notch, and follow the ridge north. At one point there is a fun crack traverse (5.3-5.4?) that stays close to the ridge. You can bypass this by dropping down 15 ft and ascending a dihedral below it (Class 3+). Beyond this there is a large open slope. Head up this to reach the second notch.
From the second notch you can see the remaining steep part of the ridge, as well as the crux pitch near the top. I believe the crux pitch to be rated 5.5 (same as that given by an Exum guide climbing the ridge the same time as us), but for a less pure ridge climb, you can drop down 30 feet or so to the west to easier climbing to bypass it.
The crux pitch is about 15 feet long and consists of a smooth, holdless wall, with a couple of crimp holds higher up, a small roof, and a 0.5-1" crack beginning to the left and ascending diagonally to the right, up through the smooth slab. The chock stone in the top of the crack is solid. It is fairly easy, though, and you can reach up and put pro in the crack and the cockstone before beginning any serious climbing.
Beyond the crux there is a little more exposed ridgeline left, and then an easy stroll across broader slopes to the summit!