Start at the Schreckhorn hut (2529 m)
From the Schreckhorn hut follow the normal route to an altitude of ca. 3400 m. At your left (north) you notice a distinct couloir that leads from the Schreckfirn, where are now, to the south-east ridge. In order to reach it, you have cross the Bergschrund. For us this was the most difficult part of this route. We had to rappel down 20 m from the ice rim to the Schrund till we got to the slippery rock. After ca. 100 m of climb we reached the couloir that led upwards to the left. The rock was dry, not too difficult and of excellent quality (gneiss).
The real pleasure starts after reaching the south-east ridge. Always keep on the ridge, mostly climbing simultaneously, on fine rock reaching the southwest summit. Here the climb ends and the rest to the summit is fairly straightforward and easy.
I prefer this safe route to the normal route, which does not have the long couloir of the Schrecksattel, where you might easily get hit by stones. 6 hours. .
Wonderful and warm climb on a sunny day. Ideal from July to September.
Rope, axe, crampons.
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