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Southeast Face

 
Southeast Face

Page Type: Route

Location: Washington, United States, North America

Lat/Lon: 45.62780°N / 122.0194°W

Object Title: Southeast Face

Route Type: Technical Rock Climb (Trad)

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: 5.7

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: peakbagger4

Created/Edited: Sep 7, 2003 / Sep 7, 2003

Object ID: 158766

Hits: 4679 

Page Score: 0%  - 0 Votes 

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Approach


Trail on east side of Climbers Register. By state law all climbers must sign in & out. Please follow these rules to help keep Beacon open to climbing.

Follow trail to 2nd wood post. Ascend side trail (Northwest) toward rock.

Route Description


The first established climb at Beacon Rock climbs 600 feet of rock ending at the westside hikers trail. The hikers trail has a locked metal gate with barbedwire extending out from the rock. This gate is locked when the park closes, however, climbers can safely get around this if caution & protection is used. Slinging the railing may provide good pro & anchors but watch out not to get tangled in the barbedwire. If attempting this route for the first time bring headlamps since slow parties and route finding can eat up time quickly. Many climbers consider the 3rd pitch the end of the climb and rap down from there.

Be aware if you are in the park or on Beacon Rock after park hours you are trespassing on state land and if caught??? Please try to get out before the park closes.

First Pitch:
Climb easy steps on solid rock 80ft to a bolt belay on a large ledge (Snag Ledge).

Second Pitch:
Traverse east along ledge to another bolt belay (70 ft)

Third Pitch:
Move up a slab to the left, step right then move up around a roof, then continue up slab/corner system. When possible climb right onto exposed corner crack system. Then climb up to tree ledge belay. There are a few old pitons and a fixed cam on this pitch.

Fourth Pitch:
Follow a left leaning dihedral ramp system to Grassy Ledges.

Fifth Pitch & Beyond*:
Wander up and left through an off-width chimney move, continue up a right leaning low angle ramp with a 1/4 inch bolt near the top. Exit left and scramble here along small grassy steps, bushes. Or move right to a tree belay then straight up to a notch. At this point scramble into the woods and continue to the hiker's summit trail with white railing.

*This section will be broken up into 2 - 3 pitches belay where safe and rope length dictates. Many parties get off route and need to either downclimb to a place to rap off or place gear to rap off. There is more than one way to the top & this part of the climb can have you climbing through dirt & vegetation.


Essential Gear


Harness
Pro to 2 inches (Nuts-Cams-Hexes) *
2- 50 Meter Ropes
Helmet
Webbing
Rap Rings- Quick Links
A few pieces of pro that are safe and you would not be heart broken to leave behind

*Medimum size cams nice on crux pitch #3.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Images

Southeast FaceFirst Pitch:<br />
 <br />
 Follow easy...Second & Start of 3rd Pitch:<br />
...3rd Pitch slabRappin BeaconFifth Pitch **: After...Seventh Pitch:<br />
 <br />
 Climb up to...
Sixth Pitch:Continuation of sixth pitchFourth Pitch:<br />
 <br />
 Suggest...