Approach
From Punta Helbronner (3470 m) reach Col des Flambeaux (3407 m). From there, leave
Aiguille de Toula on your left and aim for the col between Aiguille d'Entrèves and
Tour Ronde (Col d'Entrèves). Reach the crest of the ridge either at the col or further left with easy scramble. The approach does not normally present technical difficulties, but the
glacier is crevassed and roped travel is highly recommended. The part of the itinerary that from Col des Flambeaux almost reaches Col d'Entrèves can be seen quite clearly in this
picture.
Route Description
From Col d'Entrèves follow the
ridge to the summit. The higher difficulties are encountered towards the end. One has to first descend a steep chimney, and then negotiate a steep slab (one pass of UIAA IV). Aiguille d'Entrèves has twin summits. The southern summit seems a tad higher. After an airy but uncomplicated traverse to the
northern summit, complete the traverse of the spire by scrambling down the northeast ridge. The rocky ridge continues with a
pronounced rib of the snow slopes. Descend this rib for a while; then, angling left reconnect with the traces leading to Col d'Entrèves. (The shortest route is blocked by
seracs.) Turn right and retrace your steps to Punta Helbronner or Rifugio Torino.
Essential Gear
Ice axe, crampons, helmet. A light rock rack--most pro is in place and rock horns abound.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.
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