Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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44.22900°N / 113.883°W |
Route Type:
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Strenuous Talus Slosh |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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Class II |
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Approach
To access the southwest slopes of Dickey Peak from anywhere is a challenge unless you live nearby. The closest airport is located in Hailey, Idaho while the closest "town" is Mackay, Idaho. For access considerations, these will be directions from Hailey.
Drive north on Highway 75 for 13 miles until reaching Sun Valley Road in Ketchum, Idaho. Turn right and drive through Sun Valley on said road. Sun Valley Road turns in Trail Creek Road and heads over Trail Creek Summit on a good gravel tread in about 13 miles.
Trail Creek Road then descends into the Big Lost Valley with continually improving road conditions. After 26 miles, Trail Creek Road runs to the base of the Lost River Mountains and meets Highway 93 at an intersection. Turn north, (left) and drive through the unnoticeable hamlet of Dickey, (no services). Shortly after passing through the township, Doublespring Pass Road and an interpretive center on the massive 1983 earthquake that shook the area will be on the righthand side of the road. Set the odometer here and continue precisely 4.7 miles on the highway until reaching an unnamarked dirt road that leads east from the highway. If the road is gated, move it, the people who own the ranch next to Aretson Gulch Road have no right to blocking this access. Drive about .5 miles until reaching a small fork. Go left here. This may require moving another small gate.
Drive north on this faint road for a little less than a mile along the base of Dickey Peak. Keep a watchful eye as another faint road, not shown on the USGS map, leads due east to the base of Dickey Peak and a water tank that is on the USGS map. In the past few years, the road has been extended up to almost the 8,000' mark, however, it is not recommended to drive this far for route considerations.
Route Description
Route Stats
Although the nature of this terrain is quite open with several possible lines, they all include at least a two thousand vertical feet on very loose and steep talus and scree. For this reason, it is recommended that this route be climbed in late spring or fall when avalanche danger has decreased yet there is still snow coverage along the slopes.
From the water tank, or the point where the road fades near 8,000', bushwhack through mountain mahogany and evergreen stands to gain one of the many ill-defined ridges that head up the broad face. The line with the best footing is the ridgeline that sits directly northwest of the summit. Any obstacles encountered can be easily skirted along the sides.
Once at 10,600' the summit will come into view. Follow the class II ridgeline through more loose rock to the summit.
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Essential Gear
If climbing in snow, an ice and crampons are a must in spring and summer while optional in fall. No ropes are neccessary.
Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.