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tb00957regular route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2005
easy 14er. The drive to the trailhead is the hardest part.
Posted Jun 21, 2006 10:57 pm

dervinNorth Slope  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 6, 2004


This hike was when I became a believer in hiking light. Beautiful alpine glow, but I could have skipped the talus. Cheers.
Posted Jun 20, 2006 4:06 am

sierramtngoatNorth Face from the east  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2002


The trail to Red lake is loose so if you are backpacking in, expect some fun, in fact the whole route is loose so this might be a better early season candidate then something to do when I did it. Don't leave home without your 4WD too. Gorgeous views of the peak from Red Lake.
Posted Jun 16, 2006 9:10 am

whaynalSlowest Summit via North Slope from the East  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006


Drove to within 4.5 miles of the Red Lake trail head (in a 2001 Honda Accord sedan via the 'official' route from Big Pine through McMurray Meadows), biked half the remaining, then mostly pushed the bikes for the other half (biking in sand is terrible). Hiked almost to Red Lake, camping for the night.

At 6am we started out late for the summit. I think it was 3 miles and we made it in snails-pace 8.5 hours, which put us there at a very late 2:30pm, my first 14-er (and my first time above 11,502'). Snow was a very packed and mostly still frozen. Glorious views, very little wind. A bit warm.

Descended slowly at 3:15pm. Snow was now a little wet but stable. We did not see or hear any rock falls nor avalanches.

After repacking our bags at camp, we hiked out the rest of the way in the dark (with headlamps and a GPS track to reference). We made it back to my car by 1am, substantially later than planned, very tired and fairly dehydrated.

I found the road easily navigable, even in the dark. I didn't think the trail was very hard to follow out in the dark, but I did have to check the GPS a few times. I wish I had read these Climber Logs before I went or I would have taken a notebook for the register--it is indeed full. Someone had signed the back of a printout of the route description from Summit Post...but I forgot the name.
Posted Jun 13, 2006 1:07 am

rhyangEast couloir attempt
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2006


Partner had been up the East Couloir in June four years ago and found ice, so I figured "why not" and decided to go check it out.

Started from camp at Red Lake at 3:30am, soft snow conditions persisted up the glacier - probably never got below 40F at the lake (whose surface ice was melting). Got to schrund around 5:30-6ish - some ice there. We simul'd up to chimney on 45-50 degree soft snow. To climber's right of chimney was a gushing waterfall. Some ice in bottom of chimney, but with big gap and lots of snow; didn't look climbable. Partner led up half of rock route in crampons to climber's left of chimney, then retreated. He reported seeing an ice axe embedded in the couloir above that point.

We downclimbed from there to just above schrund, then crossed to climber's right onto a rock buttress which was slung with a faded rap anchor. Rapping on one of our 60m doubles got us down to the glacier.

Lots of rockfall as the day warmed - saw / heard several in St. Jean's area. Will consider returning in the fall. Trail up to Red Lake is heinous !!
Posted Jun 5, 2006 9:14 am

forjanSt. Jean Couloir  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 29, 2006


A spicy gully climb with the very hard snow we encountered; it demanded full concentration while cramponing up. It had been unseasonably cold the past three days. I climbed the St. Jean couloir with Brad and Mark. We started up at 4:23am from our camp at Red Lake and summited by 9:50am. BTW, the register is full. Whoever goes next please bring a notepad for the summit register. I screwed up on the descent and went down to the lowest saddle by Prater. Had to climb back up 500 feet to find the correct Red Lake pass (elev ~ 12,950') descent. Reached camp at 12:50pm. Took just 2 hours to hike out back to the Red Lake trailhead (6,568'). We had excellent weather both days.
Posted May 31, 2006 1:14 am

ZzyzxRoute Climbed: East (Central) Couloir Date Climbed: November 13, 2005  Sucess!
Great climb and great company! Climbed with Pavel (kovarpa) and Doug (dug). The weather was awesome. Couloir was filled with pretty deep snow, but at least we experienced no rockfall.
Posted Nov 17, 2005 1:46 am

kovarpaRoute Climbed: East Couloir Date Climbed: November 13, 2005  Sucess!


One of the best and fun climbs this year, 2 pitches (albeit short) of steep ice. Unbelievable weather for mid November. Great company - Kris and dug. Thanks for breaking the trail, dug!
Posted Nov 17, 2005 12:51 am

kevin trieuRoute Climbed: North Slope from the East Date Climbed: November 6, 2005  Sucess!

kevin trieu

Good clear sky with strong wind. Crappy drive to the trailhead. Do not drive in or out in the dark. It'll not be fun. Same applies to the trail. Hard to follow in the dark.
Posted Nov 7, 2005 2:11 pm

KaikaaproRoute Climbed: Western Date Climbed: August 13th  Sucess!


We left a Russian Shopka (a fur hat) up there somewhere on the mountain. If you find it, post, for a laugh. You can keep it. Good weather- the damn trail is difficult to follow- esp. at night with no flashlight.

A pseudo-summit on the way too.

Kai Kaapro

Aaron Lieberman
Posted Oct 31, 2005 5:54 pm

bechttRoute Climbed: North Slope from the East Date Climbed: 23 Oct 05  Sucess!


Incredible weather-- warm and clear on top. Views were stunning. Some snow on the North Slope but no equipment needed for the ascent. Fun finding the right road out in the dark -- Tinemaha road definitely the way to go.
Posted Oct 25, 2005 8:33 am

tdoughtyRoute Climbed: St Jeans's Couloir  Sucess!


easy gully climb with soft snow
Posted Oct 17, 2005 4:34 pm

thenunzRoute Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: 10/03/05  Sucess!


Very windy on the hike in. Calmed after sunset. A lot of talus all the way from Red Lake to the summit. Well consolidated as far as Sierra talus goes, though. 9 hours round trip from Red Lake. Great day and nice summit.
Posted Oct 17, 2005 2:21 pm

KerstinRoute Climbed: North Slope from Upper Basin Date Climbed: September 14, 2005  Sucess!


My husband Dan and I hiked in over Taboose Pass to Upper Basin. We hiked up Split Mountain from there. What an incredible view from the summit! A beautiful day.
Posted Sep 17, 2005 12:24 pm

avghikerRoute Climbed: North Slope Date Climbed: Sep, 09, 2005  Sucess!


Solo Dayhike. CA 14er - # 12. Afternoon snow flurry near the summit added some excitment to the laborious hike.
Posted Sep 15, 2005 3:30 pm

RickFRoute Climbed: Red Lake/North Slope Date Climbed: September 11, 2005  Sucess!


Thanks to party members: Bob, Joe, Phil and Karen who shared the summit with me. On this 9-11 we acknowledged those who lost thier lives on 9-11-01 and we honored those who fight for the freedom we have to make our summit sojourns. It was beautiful on top, we could see for miles in all directions. Trip Info: Friday we drove to the trail head via the Tinemaha Campground route which took about one hour from 395. Saturday we hiked for over 5 hours from trailhead to Red Lake. Sunday 9-11 we left Red Lake at 6:00 a.m, summited a little after 11:00, started down at 12:00 noon, got back to Red Lake a little after 3:00 p.m., broke camp and made it back to the trail head around 9:00 p.m.
Posted Sep 15, 2005 2:54 pm

leftyRoute Climbed: North slope Date Climbed: September 5, 2005  Sucess!


Very enjoyable climb on a beautiful day.
Posted Sep 8, 2005 1:35 am

mdashRoute Climbed: North route Date Climbed: August 7, 2005  Sucess!


Dayhiked this, starting at 9 AM, back at 6:40 PM. Thunderstorm on the summit and got lost in the vegetation on way down. Beautiful area!
Posted Aug 13, 2005 8:44 pm

cottersnowRoute Climbed: St. Jean Coulior Date Climbed: 7-5-05  Sucess!
A very moderate route with a trick schrund crossing when we were there. We did some 5.8ish rock to the right to get by.
Posted Aug 4, 2005 4:51 pm

ckerthRoute Climbed: North Slope From East Date Climbed: July 29, 2005  Sucess!


Beautiful hike. Left Red Lake at 4:00am and reached the summit at 10:00am. Stayed an hour on top and back down by 2:00pm.
Posted Aug 3, 2005 4:01 pm

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