Split Mountain Climber's Log
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|Thomas Erspamer||Main NE Route |
Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007
|Nine and a half hours to summit. If Bob Burd had started at the same time I did he would have been back in San Jose sipping a beer by the time I topped out!|
Started at 3:15 a.m. and got back to car 17 and a half hours later. Perfect weather all day. Must have had 200 miles of visibility from the top. Didn't see a soul all day except for my buddy Steve. Guess that's not much of a surprise given all the bad press I've been reading on SP about the Red Lake trail.
Driving instructions from this site were extremely helpful. We found high clearance to be necessary but directions to be spot on. No worries.
Not sure I'd call this a class 2. The shoot on the classic NE route was a dry, crumbling mess up around 12,000 feet. If anyone is anywhere above you then you'd better be wearing a helmet.
Recommend staying on solid rock to right of shoot (Class 3). There's a use trail off to the right near the base of the shoot. We descended this way.
Enough talus, debris, and boulders for a lifetime.
This was quite a long day for an average Joe hiker like myself. Which 14er will be next?
|Posted Sep 9, 2007 11:24 pm|
|skotty||Miserable approach |
Date Climbed: Sep 2, 2007
|Maybe its just because I got a late start on one of the hottest days of the year, but to me this approach was a miserable desert hike on a poor trail. Out of the 28 peaks I've done so far I would say this was the second worst approach I've done next to the approach for Mt. Williamson via Shepherd Pass.|
Nevertheless, once we got to about 10,000 feet or so, the scenery almost made us forget about the approach we endured. With still another ~3,000 ft to go from Red Lake in just about 1 mile, this is undeniably NOT one of the easiest 14ers, as R.J. Secor says. Definitely one of the best looking 14ers; very impressive.
|Posted Sep 4, 2007 11:30 am|
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
|Posted Aug 31, 2007 12:23 am|
|NoSam||North Slope from East |
Date Climbed: Aug 26, 2007
|Picked this 14'er off. Class 2 route from East/Red Lake. High clouds kept the sun off our backs. Fun climb.|
|Posted Aug 28, 2007 7:22 pm|
|Ol Walsher||North Slope |
Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
|Somewhat of a slog but well worth it. The chute had lots of talus and rubble which kept it interesting. Had a couple of showers but no thunder. Nice and quiet back there.|
|Posted Aug 13, 2007 4:53 pm|
|Mark N||N Slope from East |
Date Climbed: May 26, 2007
|Did this in early season (May). Cooler wheather and snow on the upper section made for an enjoyable trip. |
|Posted Aug 12, 2007 8:11 pm|
|MoabPeakBagger||north slope from the west |
Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007
|fun ascent up North Slope from Lake 3535 in Upper Basin. Beautiful spot, fun route, incredible views. Great!|
|Posted Jul 9, 2007 11:21 am|
|Elwood||North Slope from the East |
Date Climbed: Jun 26, 2007
|Wow! Everything about this mtn. was brutal! The road going in broke my exhaust, the trail to Red Lake was relentless, & the talus slog to the top was long & tough! Glad that one's done!|
|Posted Jul 2, 2007 12:29 am|
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2007
|Day hiked up the standard North Slope route via Red Lake on a beautiful day. Took a hard 6hrs to get up and after an hour on top napping it took 3.5 hrs to get back. Car-to-Car ~11 hrs. It was really dry up there.|
|Posted Jun 27, 2007 3:19 pm|
|atavist||cold night |
Date Climbed: Aug 28, 2006
|Climbed via Red Lake with my buddy Eric and his brother. With one tent and two sleeping bags it was a cold night but pleasant. We tried to start a fire like cavemen, it felt like an episode of Survivor.|
|Posted Jun 21, 2007 12:23 pm|
|Climber Dave||North Slope from the East |
Date Climbed: May 27, 2007
|Climbed with uwjennie and friends from Red Lake, little snow lots of rocks. Fun weekend with great weather.|
|Posted Jun 7, 2007 12:14 am|
|orandall||North Slope |
Date Climbed: Jun 4, 2007
|The North Slope route from the East is a total slog. There was some fun class 3 stuff on the North wall of the chute which broke the monotony. Red Lake trail isn't absolutely horrible, but avoid at all costs after dark. You will take wrong turns.|
|Posted Jun 5, 2007 5:07 pm|
|mtnfoto||Red Lake/North Slope|
|Uneventful climb, hot hike out.|
|Posted Jun 4, 2007 5:48 pm|
|May ?, 2001|
Phenomenal glissade on the descent.
|Posted Apr 8, 2007 10:42 pm|
|Brad Mastros||St. Jean |
Date Climbed: May 29, 2006
|Excellent weather, great view|
|Posted Mar 26, 2007 9:52 pm|
|Mescalito345||LVMC trip |
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2006
|Went on a two-day trip with the Las Vegas Mountaineers Club (LVMC). We camped at Red Lake, and climbed the loose rock to the peak on the second day. See reports by MoapaPk and sergio in the Climber’s Log.|
|Posted Mar 18, 2007 11:24 pm|
|tpdwr||N ridge from Upper Basin |
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 1987
|From a camp in Upper Basin. A blue sky day, so quiet you could hear a pin drop!|
|Posted Dec 18, 2006 3:52 am|
|mlarkin2002||North Slopes from Red Lake |
Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2006
|Dayhiked as part of the 2006 Sierra Challenge with several others.|
|Posted Oct 10, 2006 1:42 am|
|MoapaPk||Re: Northeast attempt|
|Howdy Sergio --|
did you guys do any "extra mileage" on the way out? We were in such a hurry to get down before the mountain shadow took over that crappy road, that we rushed a bit too much. I think we went off-trail 4 times, 3 times in the jungle, and once below. I kept pulling out the GPS after the fact, confirming that we had to climb back UP to get on the trail. At one point Paul said he felt like he was in the army, to which I responded, I felt we were in Bataan.
|Posted Sep 20, 2006 2:49 am|
|MoapaPk||Class 2/3, good view, terrible road |
Date Climbed: Sep 17, 2006
|Nice view. |
Stay on rock as much as possible to avoiding beaning your comrades. I really saw nothing higher than class 2 in the gully, but went some 2/3 places just to avoid rockfall.
The road (normal route): I took my Subaru Outback (7.3" clearance AWD, skid plates front and rear). I wouldn't do that again. Take a higher clearance, shorter wheelbase vehicle with stiffer suspension. 4WD or AWD (or big engine and HC) needed. I bounced rocks off the skid plates many times. I drove slowly (but not slowly enough) much of the way, and went into AWD mode many times to get up uneven, rocky slopes.
The trail to Red Lake has many, many false herd paths made by confused hikers. Some false paths even have cairns. Heed this advice: if you notice the path is suddenly fainter or much more brushy, back up to the last place where you were on the trail, and try _again_ to find the next destination on the real trail. In the "jungle", there are places where the stream is actually the path; the true path is marked by cleanly-cut (NOT just broken) branches.
|Posted Sep 18, 2006 2:39 pm|