Storm Mountain Scramble

Approach

This is a 3500’+/- ascent day. Storm Mountain can be a challenging scramble dry, but with fresh snow it should be treated as though difficult. Park at the Lost Lemon Mine pull off just 4 km south of the Highwood Pass parking area. Hike a few meters back northwest along the road to your first drainage area and follow its left side up and onto a trail that takes you back into a cirque.

Route Description

Once the meadow ends proceed at an angle up the left side to gain the south ridge of Storm Mountain. This will involve hands on scrambling that rarely gives way to feet only. You are aiming for the easiest break on the ridge, the least rugged section of the col. There was a pole in 2004 marking a good place to attain the ridge. Then plod up to the east summit. From here the south ridge looks daunting, particularly when covered in snow. An eastern ledge (right side) does not look a whole lot less exposed. I started out on the ridge, four points of contact in many spots and finally down climbed onto the eastern ledge to proceed at a better pace.

I continued on this ledge angling leftward at all times aiming for the summit. Finally you reach some lower 5th class climbing sneaking through a hole on the north side. If there is no snow, I imagine the ridge is inviting on the south side for the final approach. I had mini storms moving in and out on me, so my views were limited. There was a summit register in 2004.

On descent, I chose to cross over a precarious snow covered notch to gain the west ridge. This took some courage as the west ridge is not visible from the summit and I was dealing with 2 feet of fresh powder. However, once one carefully maneuvers the ridge down about 400', you will find angles in which to start your descent. This optional descent demands experience with route finding to get off the mountain. Once down to Storm's cirque (next one west from where you ascended), just follow the drainage (waterfalls when I was there) to the road. You will want to try this one dry, unless experienced.

Essential Gear

Alpine Ax if Snow Conditions Prevail, Helmet, Gaiters and Bear Spray

Images

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