Cascade Volcanoes
Overview
Mount RainierSuccess Cleaver Route
Success Cleaver is a 3.3-mile long rock ridge on the southwest side of Mount Rainier that rises over 8,000 feet. Success Cleaver is flanked by the South Tahoma Glacier to the north and the Pyramid and Success Glaciers to the south.
Success Cleaver is has the distinction of being one of the only two climbs on Mount Rainier that does not involve significant glacier travel. Early in the season you will be climbing on class 3 rock and steep snow. Later, when the snow melts, you will find yourself traversing across steep, exposed, unstable scree slopes. Although some claim that the danger from rock fall is minimal, there will be plenty of falling stones to keep you on your toes as you ascend the final chutes and headwall.
Success Cleaver is not an exceedingly difficult climb. However, the long approach (about 10-12 miles), the long climb (8,000 feet over 3.3 miles) and the total elevation gain from the trailhead (over 11,500 feet) make for a significant endeavor that takes most parties 2 to 4 days to complete. It is possible to descend the route, but most continue over the summit and descend via another route.
Late-season photo of Mt. Rainier showing the glacier-free Success Cleaver |
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Overview of Success Cleaver |
Topo Map of Success Cleaver |
Detail of Upper Success Cleaver |
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Aerial Photo of Success Cleaver |
Mount Rainier by Moonlight |
Photo-Topo Map of Success Cleaver |
Approach
General InformationThere is now only one approach to Success Cleaver because the Tahoma Creek Trail is now closed due to flood hazards. The only remaining approach is from Longmire via the Wonderland Trail to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground (10 miles, 4,100-ft elevation gain).
National Park Service Information Pages
Check for location conditions:
Mt. Rainier Trails and Backcountry Camp Conditions
Mt. Rainier Wilderness Camping and Hiking Homepage
Wonderland Trail (to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground)
The approach to Success Cleaver from Longmire is very long and it is difficult right from the start. From Longmire, climb a steep switchback trail over the Rampart (about an 1,100-foot climb) and then descend about 300 feet to Kautz Creek. Cross Kautz Creek and climb up to Indian Henry's Hunting Ground and Mirror Lakes. Continue on to Success Cleaver as described above under the Tahoma Creek Trail description. This approach is 10 miles long and climbs 4,100 feet.
For the latest Longmire Trail conditions:
1. Go to Mt. Rainier Trails and Backcountry Camp Conditions
2. Scroll down to the sixth chart ("Wonderland Trail")
3. Review the trail information for "Longmire to Indian Henrys"
Interactive Map of the Longmire area:
View Larger Map
Bivouac Sites
If you wish to camp at the base of Success Cleaver, there is wonderful mount (point 6,631 feet) just north of Pyramid Peak that offers broad panoramas of Success Cleaver and the surround area. If you have the energy to continue, however, start ascending Success Cleaver before bivouacking. There are good bivouac locations along Success Cleaver at about 8,100-8,300 feet, 9,400 feet and 10,700 feet.
Campsite at Point 6,631 Feet |
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Route Description
Route finding for the first 3,000 feet is straightforward. From the start of the ridge at 6,400 feet, just follow the broad ridge all the way up to 9,400 feet.At about 9,400 you will be forced to the east by steep rock steps. Traverse below the cliffs at the top of steep, exposed, unstable sand and scree slopes. This can be unpleasant and unnerving because the slopes are steep and there is no protection. Early in the season these slopes will be covered with snow.
Climbing Low on Success Cleaver |
Climbing Low on Success Cleaver |
Unpleasant Traverses |
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High on Success Cleaver |
Once you reach an elevation of about 10,200 feet you will bypass a couple of gendarmes. Most of them are passed to the east via really easy class 3 scrambling. At about 10,700 feet there is a nice broad saddle for a bivouac that is generally free of rock fall danger.
Gendarme |
Gendarme |
Gendarme |
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Bivouac Site at 10,700 feet |
Just a little higher, at around 11,200 feet, the ridge steepens dramatically and you will be forced east off the crest again. Angle up and right across three chutes to the headwall above the Success Glacier. These chutes and the headwall are pounded by falling stones and ice, so stay on your toes. The chutes are also prone to avalanches in certain conditions. In a whiteout, route finding would be very difficult here.
Continue upwards until it is possible to ascend right up steep chutes onto the Kautz Cleaver at about 12,600 feet. Once on the Kautz Cleaver, continue up to Point Success. There are several short but steep class 3 or class 4 rock bands that you will need to climb. The final rock band below Point Success is rather difficult.
This photo by BSPclimber is particularly useful for scouting the upper headwall of Success Cleaver:
Close Up of Success Cleaver |
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Climbing the Headwall |
Point Success |
Summit! |
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Descent
In order to avoid glacier travel you will need to descend Success Cleaver. This is serious under taking and should not be taken lightly. There is considerable exposure on this route and a fall would likely be very bad. If I were going to descend Success Cleaver, I would be most worried about descending the traverses from 11,000 feet to 9,400 feet. I would also not want to descend after a long summit day, I would want to bivy somewhere and hit it when I was rested. But that's just me.Most parties use an ascent of Success Cleaver to traverse the mountain. Descent of the trade route (Disappointment Cleaver) is common. Beware, route finding from the summit would be very difficult in a whiteout.
