Summit Traverse

Approach

This is a 3300’+/- ascent day. Although there is a hike to Mount Indefatigable’s south summit, the much better climbing trip is to ascend the north summit via a col above the cirque at the end of the Mount Indefatigable Trail and traverse the ridge over to the south summit. The north summit is 60’ higher than the south summit. My partner and I performed this feat under four hours in October snow. The guide book discusses 5-7 hours which is more reasonable.

Park at the North Interlakes parking area and cross the dam to the west. The Mount Indefatigable Trail immediately ascends to the right. Ascend over 1000' and take a left onto an unnamed trail and travel above tree line aiming for a col on the right hand side of the north summit of Mount Indefatigable.

Route Description

Turn left on the col and tackle the north ridge. During our ascent we had snow and ice. My estimation is that this scramble is fairly tame dry, with the exception of considerable loose rock as you ascend the north ridge via chimneys and gullies. One of these gullies below the north summit is considered the crux of this scramble.

The north summit had a register in 2003. We were in a storm of sorts, so visibility was not good of other peaks, however, I did ascend the mountain again in 2005. The views of Mount Joffre, Mount Sir Douglas and their related glaciers and peaks were outstanding. So was the view of the Royal Group in between these two mountains to the west.

Continue along the narrow ridge to the south peak. There is moderate exposure on this ridge traverse. Once at the south peak, you will observe several weather station related items. There is no shelter however. Descend down the east side and at a cairn, within 5 minutes, jump on the north side and catch a ridge back down to the trail you came up on. This trail had bear closures and warnings throughout 2003. This makes a nice short traverse.

Essential Gear

Gaiters and Alpine Ax in the Spring, Fall or Winter, Helmet and Bear Spray in the Summer

Images

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