SW arete Comments

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kentwheeler - Mar 20, 2009 1:18 pm - Hasn't voted

Possible Other Accents

Jeremy,
I think it is possible that the SW Arete was done by Chuck Grossman and partner back in about 1980. I don't know if its the exact line, but he showed me the SW arete years ago and described the climbing as 5.11+, and very scary. Chuck was solid at the grade so I believe him. I know he is still kicking around in the mountains of Colorado playing guitar at bars, so you might run into him sometime.

Also in the mid 1990s, Cameron Tague and I put a few bolts in on the overhanging face just barely visable in your photo. Not sure I've ever been so scared, bad bolts on bad rock. We bailed less than a pitch up. Felt bad about leaving biners as I was sure it would encorage someone to go back up there.
kent

Jeremy Hakes

Jeremy Hakes - Mar 23, 2009 9:52 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Possible Other Ascents

Cool info, Kent. Yeah, it is amazing that rock is still standing. While I wouldn't term it as "friable", I would term it as shattered. I can't imagine climbing that arete. Supposing I could climb 5.11+, of course.

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