This route starts at McHenrys Notch, which is the dent in the Continental Divide that separates McHenrys Peak from Powell Peak. The divide runs in the west-east direction at this point. The notch therefore has north and south sides. It can be reached in two ways.
Downclimbing from the top of Powell Peak. This approach is described here.
Ascend the couloir to the north of the notch. This is a steep snow/ice route that Gillett rates II AI 2. Access to the couloir is from Lake Solitude. See the Arrowhead page for how to get there.
From the Notch climb steep slabs to the east (sustained Class 4). Once out of the Notch follow a ledge that contours the top of the southwest face. Once the summit is in sight traverse toward it on talus. Conversely, from the summit of McHenrys Peak, head west until you find a ledge that leads to the cliff that descends to the notch. Downclimb on steep slabs to the col (Class 4).
Standard hiking gear is sufficient for the ascent to McHenrys Peak from the Notch., but some parties may want to rope up. A helmet is recommended. The approach though the couloir is a technical snow climb and should be approached as such. One may want to rappel part of the downclimb from McHenrys Peak to the Notch. There are some runners in place, but you should not count on finding them, or at least finding them in good state.
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"I PUT A BLOWTORCH TO IT AND IT DID NOT TURN INTO A GEL."