Approach
Walk up the talus to the toe of the crag. Proceed a bit further up and left to the base of a prominent large flake resting flat against the face. Rope up here. Approximately 20 minutes.Route Description
Pitch 1: There are two options. The left side of the flake is an alleged 5.8 corner with an awkward mantle onto a sloping sandy ledge at the top. The right side follows the edge of the flake, and is reputed to be 5.9. I know at least one person who has done both variations, and swears the 5.9 start is easier. From the top of the flake, climb a left-facing corner into a trough. The trough soon broadens. A thin pair of cracks lead up to a step-around move (5.10a, but I think the difficulty is inversely proportional to your reach) beneath a large block on the right. This leads to another left-facing corner that gets interesting near the top. Above the corner is a large ledge. Climb the corner/block on the right side, then around to a bolt belay. Gear to about 2"Pitch 2: The crux pitch. A left-facing corner above the belay becomes increasingly challenging and strenuous until culminating in a more or less vertical section. Above easier climbing provides a welcome rest before steepening at the technical crux--another step-around move that requires a bit of faith. A short easy traverse to the right leads to a bolt belay. Gear to 2".
Pitch 3: This pitch leads off with a not-so-well-protected traverse right to a crack system that goes more or less straight up the face (5.9). Follow the cracks until reaching a ledge. Chews up small nuts and cams. Hand-sized gear is handy for the anchor.
Pitch 4: Start with a short 5.8 chimney at the left side of the ledge. Above the chimney, traverse left and slightly up through a broken area. If you are planning to rap the route, stop at the bolts hanging out above the void. Otherwise continue on up past the bolts another 20-30 feet to the top.
Essential Gear
The pitches are not long. A 50m rope is plenty for the climb, though a 70m is required to rap the face. Gear to maybe 2.5 inches, perhaps doubling up on the finger-hand sized pieces. The third pitch can eat up nuts on the .3-.7" range. Rope drag is generally not a problem, but a few strategically placed runners will probably make the leader happier. You may want to bring a wad of webbing in case you find the rap stations free of usable slings material.Miscellaneous Info
If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.Images
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