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Three Peak Traverse
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Three Peak Traverse

 
Three Peak Traverse

Page Type: Route

Location: Alberta, Canada, North America

Lat/Lon: 51.20690°N / 115.6681°W

Route Type: Scramble

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Moderate

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: Dow Williams

Created/Edited: Jun 2, 2005 / Jun 3, 2005

Object ID: 165318

Hits: 1759 

Page Score: 81.62% - 3 Votes 

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Approach


This is a 3700'+/- ascent day. From the parking lot, cross the bridge and obtain the Cory-Edith Trial to your right. Hike 6 km along the Cory Pass trail to Cory Pass, which means you will take a left at a fork in the trail and ascend a steep meadow area (some of the best bird watching in Banff NP).


Route Description


Ascend Edith on your right from the col. You have a north angled chimney to ascend and descend going to the north summit, an easy scramble to the middle with one short exposed section, a fun short glissade over to the col between the middle and south summit (where you make your final descent), and the most challenging obstacle, (when full of snow) the tunnel to the south summit which can make for some tight and slightly exposed climbing.

The south peak is the most difficult of the three. The route begins just below the center-south peak col in a north facing gully. Scramble up steep rock in the gully for about 8 m toward a narrow tunnel. The tunnel can be a challenge. Once through the tunnel, work your way across ledges to the south and intersect the south ridge.

On descent, return to the center-south col and descend back to the Cory Pass Trail. Avoid down slopping slabs.

You have great views of Mount Louis and the Gmoser route up that mountain (great route!). You are awarded a good view of Cory to the west as well, another common scramble.
Tooltip for IE: Gamskofel

Essential Gear


Helmet, Alpine Ax (looks good even if you don’t us it), Camera (great shots of Louis, Cory and Fifi) and Gaiters for scree descent

Images

The View back North on the...Getting up the Tunnel on the...Navigating the North Peak of...Hands on Climbing, Middle...



""You cannot stay on the summit forever; you have to come down again. So why bother in the first place? Just this: What is above knows what is below, but what is below does not know what is above. One climbs, one sees. One descends, one sees no longer, but one has seen. There is an art of conducting oneself in the lower regions by the memory of what one saw higher up. When one can no longer see, one can at least still know.""   --Rene Daumal   

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