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RomainRoute Climbed: Southwest Chute # 1 Date Climbed: September 3, 2001  Sucess!


With Lanier Benkard. A short and easy ascent of the talus and scree leading to the notch separating the North and South summit, and an interesting time free climbing the summit block. A lot of loose rock in the chute, it is probably safer to climb this in the early spring. We had planned to traverse to Starlight but the weather turned sour around 10 am. It rained and snowed all afternoon, and there was a massive rock fall in the nearby Starlight Chute around 5 pm. No regrets on turning back on that traverse - this would have been our way down.
Posted Sep 6, 2001 12:28 am

Bob BurdRoute Climbed: East Face, Right Side Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2000  Sucess!

Bob Burd

Climbed this with mconnell. We intended to climb the East Couloir, but got off-track to the left side of the couloir. No matter. We forged what we thought was a new route, only to find a rappel sling no more than a few years old, and later a section of hemp rope from days gone by.

We climbed the north summit first (not by the easiest route, we found later), followed by the south summit. In tossing our rope over the summit block and pulling it taut, blind luck caught it in the carabiner on the summit bolts. Ha! What a fun day! Here's the trip report, if you care. :)
Posted Aug 20, 2001 11:15 pm

JoshRoute Climbed: Right hand Underhill Couloir Date Climbed: August 1, 2001  Sucess!


This was the first summit of my CA 14er speed climbing tour! Check out the trip report here.
Posted Aug 8, 2001 5:02 pm

mconnellRoute Climbed: east couloir/east face Date Climbed: Aug 2000  Sucess!
We started out heading up the couloir but took the wrong branch. Ended up near the east face. Climbed both summits.

Posted Jul 17, 2001 11:58 am

JoshRoute Climbed: The rock to the right of the Underhill Couloir Date Climbed: June 24, 2001  Sucess!


Single day traverse of Thunderbolt, Starlight, North Palisade and Polemonium. Started at the parking lot at 5:30am....didn't get back until 9:30. Hauled a 30lb pack full of snow/ice gear all day. That sucked big time on the 5th class rock sections. This traverse is great fun, but make sure you're routefinding skills are good. If you rope up and place pro, the traverse will take forever. Better to free solo, but beware of loose rock!

NOTE: As of 6/24/01, the summit register is no longer on the true summit! Someone took it and put it on the ground just below the summit block. Also, there is a 15 foot piece of webbing tied to the summit bolts that some people use to haul their weak asses up (I don't know how long that will stay....I should have taken it down myself). Come on you guys, it's only 5.8+!

Posted Jun 25, 2001 10:06 am

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