Tocllaraju Climber's Log
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|CTHLOY||No liquid water at moraine camp|
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2013
|At casa de guias they told us that liquid water is available at moraine camp. Well, there wasn't, and we did not bring enough fuel for melting snow and cook food.|
The combination of starting out sick with diarrhea and not having later on enough fuel made us turn around shortly after we have gained the summit shoulder of the normal route.
The route switch-backed around large crevasses until we reached the bergschrund. The bergschrund was no problem to cross, we engaged into the 45 degree snow slope and encountered a near vertical section to gain the ridge. The snow/ice was of very 'sugary' consistency and the pickets and screws we set as protection were not very confidence-inspiring. We pitched this section out while other groups were overtaking us in simul-climbing technique.
Due to the minimal food intake and dehydration I ended up being totally exhausted when we gained the ridge and asked my partner to turn around.
The mountain and the surrounding scenery is just plain beautiful. Enjoy the climb, but be prepared and bring enough fuel!
|Posted Sep 22, 2013 11:12 am|
Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2013
|Turned around at 5350m due to avalanche, lots of snow.|
|Posted Sep 15, 2013 3:22 pm|
|Farmer||Normalroute from Ishinca basecamp |
Date Climbed: Jun 17, 2013
|Very windy and cold.. but we made it. Woeha....great climb.|
|Posted Sep 8, 2013 12:51 pm|
|Andy P.||NW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jun 24, 2013
|I echo the comments of Jake, very windy conditions and very soft/deep snow Jun 22-24. We never would have made it on the 23rd so we saved our attempt for the 24th and just BARELY made it (turnaround time was looming very near and 1 more mph of wind probably would have turned us away).|
Route this year (so far): Uneventful climb to the first 'shrund. Then a surprising and exciting full 60m pitch of two tool technical climbing, all 60-85 degree. The 80-85 degree short 8m section was on very hard neve, I do not think a normal mountaineering axe would have been secure. Two semi-technical tools required IMO. I hope someone finds a easier way through this section later in the season as it can be a real bottleneck. After that pitch, some very short sections of 50-60 degree snow interrupt a mainly very moderate climb on the northwest ridge.
The summit pinnacle, often the crux was very easy for us this year, didn't even feel steeper than 50 degrees, and the very soft snow had giant buckets kicked in it. Rappelled the summit pitch because it was so crowded and then it was a no brainer to rappel the crux pitch above the schrund. Two 60m ropes do NOT reach below the shrund from the established rap anchors, be VERY careful when getting off rappel as you have about 5m to descend with consequences if you blow it. This is probably the most dangerous part of the climb because not only are you filled with the gleeful feelings of a fun rappel but you know that you are 99% of the way to safety, it is easy to get complacent and you are probably tired, hungry, thirsty, and getting baked by the sun by this point of the climb. Hope someone by now has put the rappel anchors lower down the slope!
|Posted Jul 12, 2013 4:21 pm|
|Jake||Bad conditions |
Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2013
|We had to turn back at 5500m due to big amount of fresh snow, poor visibility and wind. There were couple more teams trying that day and I think one of them made it to the top.|
|Posted Jul 9, 2013 8:49 am|
|tb00957||northwest ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2012
|Fun climb. Snow was compact but not icy. Perfect.|
|Posted Aug 10, 2012 5:09 pm|
|AlbertoRampini||North West Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002
|Posted Mar 12, 2012 5:46 pm|
|andret||NW Ridge Again |
Date Climbed: Jun 3, 2011
|Climbed it again to give a previously sick member of our party a shot. Made it to the top, but it was socked in.|
|Posted Aug 13, 2011 8:50 am|
|andret||NW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jun 1, 2011
|Posted Aug 13, 2011 8:49 am|
|bighornmonkey||short summit day |
Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2011
|Fun and short route done in perfect weather and perfect snow conditions. 4.5hrs up from our camp in the moraine. I would rate it PD+/AD- but certainly not D.|
Less than 24hrs from trailhead to summit.
|Posted Jul 15, 2011 10:19 pm|
|rgg||North west ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2011
|The hardest part of the route was gaining the NW-ridge from the glacier, which we did at around 5500-5600m or so. To get over a bergschrund blocking the way, a short, 5 to 10m, bit of 70-degrees snow climbing was required. Shortly thereafter was a much longer section of 50 to 60 degrees (two pitches required).|
Finally, just before the summit ridge was another section of two pitches up to 60 degrees.
Fortunately, the snow was strong and in excellent condition, and climbing was pure fun! In this condition, I would rate the route AD, or AD+, but no D.
However, the very next day, there was a fresh bit of snow, so the route condition may be a bit different now ...
By the way, we camped at around 5200m on the glacier. In fact, there are many places to camp on the glacier at various altitudes before going on the ridge, and even some on the wide ridge itself. In fact, there was even a very nice and sheltered site on the summit ridge, above the final difficulties, only minutes from the summit!
|Posted Jul 2, 2011 7:26 pm|
|Silvia Mazzani||North West Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 22, 2002
|My first 6000, a fantastic route with a short technical pitch in upper part. For me a great satisfaction!|
|Posted May 13, 2011 10:20 am|
|Bill562||NW Ridge |
Date Climbed: Jul 24, 2010
|Long but incredible day - morraine camp to summit and back to base camp. All the info we had on this route was indicating a moderate climb. Well, moderate my butt .... I don't think there are any moderate (AD and below) routes on any CB 6K peaks this year..|
|Posted Jul 25, 2010 11:49 pm|
|Gido||West face |
Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2010
|After an unwanted shot of adrenaline, I dangled in the bergshrund, me and Pablo Puruncajas (ECU)summitted in perfect weather. Spectacular and steep face, the sting proved to be in Tocclaraju's tale with a nasty crevasse at the summit mushroom requiring great alertness.|
|Posted Jul 13, 2010 7:06 am|
Date Climbed: Jun 22, 2008
|Climbed with Dan...it's a long ridge climb except for the last bit which requires some belayed climbing.|
|Posted Mar 26, 2010 10:34 am|
|Good climb up the NW ridge, just short of the bergschrund were able to look to the east and see the sun rise and then look to the west and see the moon set. Just past the bergschrund conditions deteriorated quickly and were unable to get a purchase in the snow. Great climb either way.|
|Posted Nov 11, 2009 7:39 am|
Date Climbed: Jul 20, 2007
|Heavy snow the two days prior to our attempt stopped us around 3 hours from the summit. Bummer, probably should have waitied another day for some guided teams to break the trail.|
Also, wouldn't waste my time setting up at moraine camp. I would opt to setup higher up on the glacier.
|Posted Oct 20, 2009 1:40 pm|
|Climbed the west ridge with Tyler Appetito & Kaveh Kashani. Lots of snow, no tracks or other climbers. Tyler fell into a crevasse 2 times on the descend & weather got bad. Great climb!|
|Posted Sep 1, 2009 6:16 pm|
|oliverkalt||Normal route |
Date Climbed: May 29, 2001
|I never felt worse after catching a massive stomach flu on the layover day in Huaraz. Made it but did not enjoy it. Thanks to my friends! I would never have kept going on my own.|
|Posted Aug 7, 2009 2:23 am|
|Ario||via Normal Route variation |
Date Climbed: Jul 5, 2009
|Reached the summit led by the guide in training (Aspirante Guia) Marco Pompeyo and with his brother Heimer (porter). Heimer asked me the night before whether he could join us as he had never climbed a 6000m summit, to which I agreed. He was lightly equipped thus I gave him my down jacket for the cloudy night outing. We started from the (first) high camp (5000m) on a rocky ledge at 01:15 and summited at 07:15 via a normal route variation (D), following the beaten path, with limited visibility and wind gusts up to 30 km/h. We were followed by a Spanish party (from Estramadura) and descended all together. The three other parties behind us turned back at different stages.|
Normally, "aspirantes" are not supposed to guide clients on 6000m summits but my UIAA membership meaning no obligation of hiring a mountain guide made the point again!
|Posted Jul 7, 2009 3:48 pm|