Welcome to SP!  -
Tofana di Dentro North Ridge
Route

Tofana di Dentro North Ridge

  Featured on the Front Page
Tofana di Dentro North Ridge

Page Type: Route

Location: Belluno, Italy, Europe

Lat/Lon: 46.55685°N / 12.06389°E

Object Title: Tofana di Dentro North Ridge

Route Type: Hiking, Scrambling

Season: Summer

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: Alpine F+

Grade: I

Route Quality: 
 - 3 Votes
 

 

Page By: alpinbeta

Created/Edited: Oct 19, 2014 / Dec 13, 2017

Object ID: 918351

Hits: 1242 

Page Score: 86.37%  - 22 Votes 

Vote: Log in to vote

 

Overview

Tofana di Dentro North Ridge





Tofana di Dentro or Tofana de Inze or Tofana III m 3238 is a mountain belonging to the group of the three majestic Tofane in the Eastern Dolomites and it’s the less popular and less known among these three mountains of similar height. However it's a beautiful peak, full of history, that can be climbed choosing amongst three different Normal routes.
It will be described the Normal route running along the North Ridge of the mountain, a long and scenic itinerary that is particularly interesting in reason of the superb views and the remains of the fighting on these high summits during the First World War.

First ascent: Paul Grohmann with Angelo Dimai 1865, August 27th


Tofana III or Tofana di Dentro
Tofana III or Tofana di Dentro or Tofana de Inze

Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Rozes from Tofana di Dentro
Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Rozes from the summit

Getting There

Two different road approachs are possible depending if coming from Bolzano or Belluno

- From Bolzano: take the Brennero Highway, exit to Bressanone and take the Val Pusteria, getting Brunico and Dobbiaco; here turn to right to Val di Landro, reaching Carbonin and then Cortina d’Ampezzo. Here take the road to Passo Falzarego and leave the main road to follow on the right the signposts to Col Drusciè and Ristorante Pietofana, where you can park the car.

- From Belluno: follow the road SS 51 to Longarone and Pieve di Cadore; in Pieve turn to left and follow the road to Cortina d’Ampezzo. Here take the road SS48 to Passo Falzarego. Leave the main road after a few kilometers and follow on the right the signposts to Col Drusciè and Ristorante Pietofana, where you can park the car.

 Tofana di Dentro, rocky ledges
Rocky ledges
Tofana di Dentro - The rocky window
Tofana di Dentro, the rocky window
Tofana di Dentro, upper ice section
Upper ice slopes


From Ristorante Pietofana m. 1675 take the path n. 407 rising to Forcella Ra Vales m. 2300.
A shorter walking approach can be done taking the “Freccia del Cielo” cable-car starting from the Col Drusciè Hut and reaching the Ra Vales middle station. From here the Forcella Ra Vales can be quickly reached descending along a short scree.

Route Description

Tofana di Dentro North ridge

Difficulty: F+ (Alpine scale) - I grade (rocky section), 45° the snow section
Difference in level: 940 m. from Forcella Ra Valles, 1550 m. from Ristorante Pietofana

A panoramic and long route, alternating tracks with cairns, easy rocky steps and snow slopes near the summit

Tofana di Dentro, upper ice slopes
Ice slope
Tofana di dentro summit ridge
Summit ridge
Tofana di Dentro summit view
Tofana di Dentro summit view


From the Ra Vales col m 2300 head to left following a path that describes a wide semicircle to the right, reaching the scree located below Tofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Dentro. Cross the long scree to reach the characteristic remains of the barracks Formenton m 2653, dating back to the First World War; from the remains climb up to a small notch, after passing through a window into the rock. Downclimb briefly on the other side and follow a trail with many hairpins climbing up a large gully through narrow ledges sometimes exposed, getting to a col called Forcella Formenton m 2860, separating Tofana di Dentro from Cima Formenton.

Tofana di Dentro, summit view over Fanis group
A wide view of the neighbouring Fanis Group captured from the summit of Tofana di Dentro

Tofana di Dentro, the old WWI emergency bivouac
Capanna Alpini Battaglione Fenestrelle", an eagle's nest along the route



Climb easy rocks with a short-equipped step and then a scree to reach the emergency bivouac Baracca degli Alpini Battaglione Fenestrelle, a secluded real nest of eagles, lost on the mountain at an altitude of 2922 m (7 places). From the bivouac follow at first the jagged rocks of the north ridge and some debris, finally the crest almost always snowy or icy. A last gravel on the East side (towards Cortina) leads to the short summit ridge short and to the old wooden cross of the summit.

Summit view over Fanis group
Summit signal and Tofana di Mezzo
Clouds begin to hide the summit of Tofana di Rozes
Tofana di Rozes from the summit
Upper snow and debris slopes
Snow and debris before the summit


Descent - Reversing the same route

Essential Gear

Ice axe and crampons are highly recommended at the beginning of the season or after summer snowfalls.

Red Tape

No fees no permits required

The First World War on Tofana di Dentro

As the whole area of Tofane, Tofana di Dentro was the scene of fierce battles between Austro-Hungarian and Italian troops during the First World War.
In May 1916 an Austro-Hungarian patrol conquered Tofana di Dentro quote 2758, renaming this place "Nemesis", with the intention of regaining
the main summits of both Tofana di Dentro and Tofana di Mezzo, fallen into the hands of the Alpine troops. But the project was never completed because a few months later the Alpine troops retook "Nemesis" after hard fighting.

Ruins of Formenton barracks, First World War
Ruins of Formenton barracks, First World War

Majestic pano from Forcella Formenton
Remains of First World War at Forcella Formenton

Where to stay

There is a wide choice of different kinds of accommodations in Cortina d'Ampezzo an surroundings: hotels, appartments, campgrounds and huts.

Bivouacs

Along the route, at the height of 2922 meters, is located the Capanna degli Alpini Battaglione Fenestrelle, an original and well restored hut of the italian alpine troops, fighting in altitude in the Tofane Group during the First World War.
It's a wooden emergency bivouac with 7 bed, embedded in a niche of the rocky wall below the North ridge of Tofana di Dentro. A true eagles' nest!

When to climb

The best season to climb goes from the end of June to the end od September

Bibliography

"3000 delle Dolomiti" - Ed. Idea Montagna, Collana "Vie Normali", 2012

"Dolomiti Orientali" Vol. I Parte I - Antonio Berti, Collana Guide Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI

Meteo forecast

ARPAV DOLOMITI METEO

Images

Tofana di Dentro, summit view over Fanis groupTofana di dentro summit ridgeRuins of Formenton barracks, First World WarTofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Rozes seen from Tofana di DentroMajestic pano from Forcella Formenton, Tofana di DentroTofana di Dentro summit crestTofana di Mezzo from the summit of Tofana di Dentro
Tofana di Dentro North ridgeTofana di Mezzo and Tofana di Rozes from Tofana di DentroTofana di Dentro, upper ice sectionTofana di Dentro aka Tofana IIITofana di Dentro, rocky ledgesPeople descending Tofana di Dentro snow slopesTofana di Dentro  summit view
[ View Gallery - 8 More Images ]