Towers, 5.8-5.11c

Overview/Approach

Desert Queen Mine is one of the least visited, if not the least, of any climbing destination detailed in the local guides.  Miramontes fails to nail down the dates these climbs were established, but any fixed hardware I came across in 2019 needs replaced.  Obviously, this area was developed quite a while ago, but you are likely to never come across anyone at Hidden Valley who would have any idea where it is and/or the routes it features.

This is actually one of the more historical sections of the park, littered with many old mines: deep holes in the ground with steel grated covers.  Established by Frank L. James in the early 1890s, the mine remained active for 70+ years!  Part of that history involved the lore of outlaw cattle rustler Jim McHaney whose gang murdered James and took over the mine.  Ironically, he eventually borrowed money against it and lost it to a bank. The Keys Ranch family eventually took over the mine and kept it going as late as 1961.

“Towers” is not the best description for this small collection of climbs.  None of the features really stand out as much of a “tower”.  Rather this is a loose collection of short walls directly up the hill to the east from where the old miner’s trail/road drops you off at an obvious large boulder named “Power Shopping”.  Power Shopping itself has bolts on its north face, so it is relatively easy to find.  A short hike up the hill to the east gets you to a few short granite outcroppings named the Towers.  There are surprisingly two decent moderate climbs up here, each on a different face.  The first one you come to is a Bridge Too Far, 5.10a* (see photo).  I thought this was an exceptional climb and if roadside in a more popular locale in the park, would be considered one of the better 5.10a trad leads at Jtree.  You start up a chimney and transition to a finger crack and then get a fantastic small roof pull at the grade.  You walk off this route to climbers right which almost puts you below a feature with a west facing bolted line right up its gut, Xenalmorph, 5.10c*.  However, these bolts need to be replaced as of 2019.  Directly behind this wall is a stellar short 5.8 trad climb named Death Rides a Pale Horse, 5.8.  This hands/finger splitter gets no recommendation in the local guide but sure deserves one.  Times of Holiness, 5.11c**, is on a short face to the left.  In just 10 minutes or less, you can move between Queen Crimson Dome and the Towers.

You can access this area by driving the dirt road extension of Bighorn Pass road for 4 miles +/- or head north directly off of Park Blvd east of Sheep Pass.  There is a dirt road heading north off of Park Blvd named Desert Queen Mine road.  It is located directly across from Geology Tour Road.  Follow it to its end which is an official trail-head (offering several hikes) with a backcountry board and restroom.  Follow the trail northeast on the right side of the restroom and turn right at an old homestead.  Follow this old mine trail/road down to the significant wash below, cross it and head up the switch back old mine trail past several mines and cut back right at a small feature (massive boulder) named Power Shopping which has several bolted routes on its north face.  Hike directly to the east and aim for the granite outcroppings in clear view (photos). Maybe 30 minutes total. 

Routes Listed as They are Approached

A Bridge Too Far- 65’-5.10a*/ Taller than the local guide suggests.  On the lower tier of the Towers area, to the far right.  Start in an easy chimney and reach the finger crack at a third height.  Sling a chockstone at the top of the chimney and/or place a small piece and make the transition from the chimney to the crack.  Excellent climbing up the finger crack.  The crux is near the top as you pull a bulge.  Well protected and fun.  There is an outdated fixed belay anchor on top that serves no purpose.  Rather do a gear anchor in the massive boulder several meters back.  Double up on micro to finger sizes and a few medium pieces.  Wires.  Faces SW.  Scramble down climber’s right.  Dow

Xenalmorph- 35’-5.10c*/ A fully bolted climb that needs re bolting as of 2019.

Death Rides a Pale Horse- 35’-5.8/ Deserves a recommendation in the local guide.  A fantastic, but short, hand and finger crack in stellar rock.  Access this face/tower which is above a Bridge Too Far via a boulder gully to the right of Bridge.  There is a bolted face, Xenalmorph, 5.10c*, but the bolts are ancient.  Behind this spire, on the left side, is Death.  Single rack to C4 #3.  Gear anchor.  Faces west.  Walk down climber’s left.  Dow

Times of Holiness- 45’-5.11c**/