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Traverse Fletschorn 3993 m. - Lagginhorn 4010 m.
Route

Traverse Fletschorn 3993 m. - Lagginhorn 4010 m.

 
Traverse Fletschorn 3993 m. - Lagginhorn 4010 m.

Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Traverse Fletschorn 3993 m. - Lagginhorn 4010 m.

Route Type: Mountaineering

Season: Summer

Time Required: One to two days

Difficulty: AD

Grade: III

Route Quality: 
 - 2 Votes
 

 

Page By: mamo

Created/Edited: Oct 10, 2006 / Oct 24, 2006

Object ID: 233681

Hits: 4567 

Page Score: 76.66%  - 7 Votes 

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Overview

Beautifull ride in high mountain, very panoramic and of wide-ranging satisfaction . The climbing to Lagginhorn by NNE's ridge is carried out on rocks by blocks , passages are never unavoidable , of max diff. III° ; there's not great exposure. It's better to climb the more possible on the edge of the ridge ; under the ridge there are dangerous cliff zones of unstable blocks .

Getting There

Visp ( VS - Ch ) – Saas Grund – cableway to a Krizbode - easy signed path to Weissmieshutte 2726 m. in 1/2 h .




Route Description

From Weissmieshutte (2726 m) take to N the little path that leads to cross the glacial torrent on a small metallic bridge . Towards right to follow the path (rocky signal) on the left orographic moraine of the Tälligletscher. A short descent at the end of the moraine leads on the morainic terrain of the glacier (1h); cross this one going towards left direction NW, in order to come fastly outside from the shooting of the seracs of the Fletschorngletscher that is incumbent up to right. Go up further on unraweled rocks untill "quota" 3263m. , where usually begin snow slope . 
Normal route to Fletschorn
 
Go up heading to the tightened and steep couloir that take to the higher slope ( 50 m. 45° ; often can be icy - attention of rolling stones in case of warm temperatures ). Catch up the quota 3527m. called place de dejuner ( place of breakfast ) where the Gruebengletscher begin (3h). Cross the glacier going up lightly direction N ; pass at one's best between some crevasses (snow and ice) in order to catch up one saddle at about 3840 m. (fantastic view down to the North wall ); following NW's ridge , in less than 1/2 h , you reach the top of Fletschorn 3993 m (4h).
Go on towards the Fletschornjoch 3694 m. following the easy E ridge : at the beginnig on snow , then easy cliffs , therefore a wide snow slope. Start climbing NNE ridge of Lagginhorn from the lower point at East side , by a short , steep icy slope .
Follow the ridge until the top keeping itself most possible on the edge . The rocks are enough solid and good if you climb on the edge , instead hardly unstable and dangerous few meters under the edge . Lend attention to the eventual cornices at the begining of summer season ; at last an elegant snowy ridge leads to the top of Lagginhorn 4010 m.(2,30 h from the Fletschorn).
Descending
Directly from the top , come down by the easy and large WSW ridge ( normal route ) .  
WSW s ridge of Lagginhorn
 
Traces of passage on snow and unraweled rocks fastly lead to one easy rocky ridge . Follow it remaining on the edge . Joints nearly to shoulder quoted 3450 m. and turn to SE and reach down on the Lagginhorngletscher. Come down under Lagginhorn's SW wall ( pay attention to the stone falls) , cross towards SE and reach at 3000 m the path that, following the orographic left moraine of glacier , take you to the hut (2,30h).
The whole traverse from Weissmieshutte 2726 m. to Fletschorn 3993 m. - Fletschornjoch 3694 m. - Lagginhorn 4010 m.- Weissmieshutte needs about 8 / 10 hours depending by the mountain's condition .

Essential Gear

Normal gear for glacier tour , some equipment for easy rock climbing

External Links

link to Camp to Camp Alpinisme

Images

NNE\'s ridge of LagginhornWeissmies, Lagginhorn and FletschhornNNE\'s ridge of LagginhornOn the GruebengletscherFletschorn - E ridgeNormal route to FletschornWSW\'s ridge of Lagginhorn
NNE Lagginhorn\'s ridgeNNE Lagginhorn\'s ridge ; at half way upSunset to Mischabel\'s groupLagginhorn\'s NNE ridgeOn Lagginhorn\'s top