Traverse from Mount Gould

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 36.79010°N / 118.3758°W
Additional Information Route Type: Rock and Bouldering
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: Class 3-4
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach


From Onion Valley one can choose from two main routes up to Mount Gould, from Kearsarge Pass or from Golden Trout Lake.

Route Description


From Mount Gould follow the flat ridge North and pass east of the high point North of Gould. From here the ridge becomes more knife-edge like and the traverse gets into more Class3-4 difficulty. I tried the west side of the ridge and had to do a bit of extra up and down to get around a couple of steep aretes and chutes. The summit blocks on Dragon are a little more difficult than on Gould with a bit more exposure.

Essential Gear


A rope etc. for the faint of heart, but not what I'd call a necessity.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.

Additions and CorrectionsPost an Addition or Correction

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thebeave7

thebeave7 - Jun 18, 2004 11:44 am - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

No addition, but I was wondering if you could provide more beta on the approach starting from the saddle just below Gould's North peak. I recently attempted this traverse, but encountered what appeared to be class 5 rock and 2 very steep snow fields at the second pilar. Did you go over? Around(if so which side)? Additional info would be helpful.

sierradiscgolfer

sierradiscgolfer - Jul 1, 2004 12:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

I found the West side of the knife edge to be a bit steep so I crossed over to the East side after the first pilar. Stay within sight of the knife edge but well enough below to stay out of the 4-5 class rock there. As I said, the summit blocks are a little more intense than Gould with more exposure but still within the class 4 range.

Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Oct 21, 2005 6:26 pm - Hasn't voted

Route Comment

Alright folks.....here's the real beta.

Once you pass Gould (easier terrain on the west side of Gould), hike north over to the ridge that starts to head northeast. Keep to the east side of the small outcropping pillars. After 300 yards, you will pass the South Chute coming up from Golden Trout as you pick through talus and scree. Stay low (keeping the pillars within close sight) and traverse to where a low gap appears on the the ridge as it bends east. There is a large cairn marking the gap. Cross through this gap (class 3) and over to the NW side of the ridge. Once on the other side, you'll see Dragon Peak to the north. Easy scrambling takes you to the base of Dragon Peaks southern ridge (look for rocks that are distinctly shaped like Stegasaurus spines). Pass these rocks and head straight up, scrambling up slabs and keeping somewhat close to the right side for easier travelling. Aim just right of the first large tower you encounter. Once past there, go behind and traverse up and left across the peaks south face. Be watchful for the gap behind the next tower above (which appears as Dragon Peak's summit for afar...but it's not. The true summit is behind it to the north). Once at the next tower, pass through the gap and traverse over on "tiger striped" rock to a blind left facing corner. Climb the corner to a foot ledge leading left. (DO NOT take the lower ledge unless you want to encounter some spicy 5th class moves!) One at the upper ledge, cross over and up to the summit.

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Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.