Traverse via NE ridge and West flank

Traverse via NE ridge and West flank

Page Type Page Type: Route
Location Lat/Lon: 45.99652°N / 7.98830°E
Additional Information Route Type: Scramble and hike
Additional Information Time Required: Most of a day
Additional Information Difficulty: PD-
Sign the Climber's Log

Approach


From the large boulder at Talli (see the map, try the 1:50,000 Matterhorn-Mischabel map, available locally) head SE into the Talliboden glacier valley.


Route Description


From Talli climb to the Mondiellpass via the moraine on the left of the glacier (true right bank) and the dirty rubble slopes above this (I am really selling this route right now aren't I!!). Once at the pass follow the NE ridge to the summit avoiding the steeper steps slightly on the right. This is fairly continuous UIAA 2. The last part to the summit goes directly up exposed rock slabs and is 2+.

To complete the traverse head straight down the west flank (a mixture of snow and huge boulders) to the MonteMoro Pass. From here follow the well marked trail back to the Mattmark dam.

Essential Gear


1 rope, 5 nuts and 3 slings with locking krabs. Take a helmet also as there is a bit of loose stuff on the ridge. An ice axe is necessary for the descent. If it is very snowy then consider crampons as well.

The route is an easy solo for the competant and a good introduction to moving together techniques for novice alpinists. Another good warm up route for climbers acclimatising in the Saas valley

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

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