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Traverse via NE ridge and West flank

Traverse via NE ridge and West flank


Page Type: Route

Location: Switzerland, Europe

Object Title: Traverse via NE ridge and West flank

Route Type: Scramble and hike

Time Required: Most of a day

Difficulty: PD-

Route Quality: 
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Page By: Probemeister

Created/Edited: Oct 30, 2003 / Oct 30, 2003

Object ID: 159236

Hits: 1193 

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From the large boulder at Talli (see the map, try the 1:50,000 Matterhorn-Mischabel map, available locally) head SE into the Talliboden glacier valley.

Route Description

From Talli climb to the Mondiellpass via the moraine on the left of the glacier (true right bank) and the dirty rubble slopes above this (I am really selling this route right now aren't I!!). Once at the pass follow the NE ridge to the summit avoiding the steeper steps slightly on the right. This is fairly continuous UIAA 2. The last part to the summit goes directly up exposed rock slabs and is 2+.

To complete the traverse head straight down the west flank (a mixture of snow and huge boulders) to the MonteMoro Pass. From here follow the well marked trail back to the Mattmark dam.

Essential Gear

1 rope, 5 nuts and 3 slings with locking krabs. Take a helmet also as there is a bit of loose stuff on the ridge. An ice axe is necessary for the descent. If it is very snowy then consider crampons as well.

The route is an easy solo for the competant and a good introduction to moving together techniques for novice alpinists. Another good warm up route for climbers acclimatising in the Saas valley

Miscellaneous Info

If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.


On the NE ridge