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Unicorn Peak Climber's Log

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olymountainmanUnicorn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 9, 2013


Fun climb!
Posted Jan 12, 2014 11:17 pm

pingzingrSuccess  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 24, 2013


Good day in the Tatoosh as usual. Clouds were in and out all day and I can definitely see why this is a good early summer climb. Would have been a hell of a lot easier with snow in the upper bowls. Right side 5.0 lines had a bit of exposure and was nerve-wracking being the only guy on the mountain!
Posted Aug 25, 2013 12:29 am

cyffredinolA fun day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2013


My first (successful) climb with the Mazamas after BCEP. Very enjoyable climb despite the clouds hiding the view.
Posted Jun 5, 2013 12:33 am

Matt LemkeAwesome sunny day  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 4, 2013

Matt Lemke

Great snow for kicking up and the final summit pitch was dry. Led the 5.6 crack route. Fun little climb and awesome views of rainier
Posted May 6, 2013 9:18 pm

nicozoneAwesome Little Mountain  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 29, 2012


Compared to it's immediate neighbor to the north (Mt. Rainier), Unicorn Peak isn't tall or heavily glaciated. But it does feature two exciting snow chutes and a perfect rock summit block. We climbed the 5.4 route just to the right of the 5.6 route with a roof climb on a boulder at the top of the route. I lead and it took a #4 and #12 nut, plus a draw into the shaky old bolt in the middle of the route. I clipped the bolt because it was there, but I wouldn't advice falling on it.
Posted Jul 30, 2012 4:05 am

gatoRainy day diversion  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 7, 2010


Fun day with great friends.
Posted Aug 7, 2010 11:04 pm

DundeelSnow Lake route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: May 29, 2010


Climbed with Mountaineers. Deep snow from the TH. Summit block icy. Used fixed rope up the scramble route. Strong wind and no visibility but a great group.
Posted May 30, 2010 11:57 am

ericwillhitetwice  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 15, 1998


First time solo, then back years later with friends. Map and pictures at http://www.willhiteweb.com/washington_climbing/unicorn_peak/tatoosh_range_105.htm
Posted Oct 5, 2009 4:07 am

DoehleSnow lake trail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 1, 2009


With The Castle, out via Pinncle/Plumber saddle
Posted Aug 3, 2009 6:56 pm

YEMSnow Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Sep 7, 2008


Thanks Justafafish and Dan for a great day in the mountains. Was that granite down low?
Posted Sep 8, 2008 5:54 pm

mrbynumSnow Lake Route  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 12, 2008


Ah yes, my first glaciated peak! A fantastic trip with great views of Adams, St. Helens, Hood in the distance, and of course Ranier up close and personal. Best part of the day was the climb to the actual summit. Snow was well packed through most layers with the top 1-3 inches fairly soft in mid day sun and mostly solid in the shade. Snow bridges near Snow Lake are getting thin so we had to use extra caution. The chute from the upper bowl to the saddle was a bit dicey on the decent with the snow slope slanting into scree.
Posted Jul 14, 2008 4:45 pm

Bob BoltonSnow Lake trail  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 29, 2008

Bob Bolton

Finally some decent weather for a climb! Actually it was way better than decent -- it was outstanding, if a bit warm. Snow all the way from the road. Fun approach hike, fun rock summit, and not being a rock climber I did the easy route. Fantastic views in all directions.
Posted Jul 9, 2008 7:07 pm

tleafClimbed with my Father-in-law  Sucess!


Probably 10 years ago we had a great climb on a week day in summer. We both felt great, the scenery was incredible, the weather perfect.
Posted May 13, 2008 6:53 pm

Dan WinterSnow Lake  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 18, 2005

Dan Winter

The weather looked "iffy" but stayed dry. My parter and I got a good laugh at the length of the rock route compared to the size of his FULL rack. The glissade down made me smile:)
Posted May 1, 2008 1:10 am

spotlySnow Lake
Date Climbed: Jun 25, 2006


Climbed with Tazz and AB. A fun little alpine route. Saw someone slide off the main ridge into the bowl above the first pass...tumbled out of control. Surprisingly not seriously hurt.
Posted Jul 20, 2007 4:20 pm

KrylonUnicorn  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 2, 2006


Started the approach in the rain, but things cleared up. Glad we pressed on.
Posted Nov 27, 2006 11:24 pm

osatrikFun in the Sun  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Aug 22, 1999


My daughter Hillary and I did this climb. We wished we'd brought our crampons, but took our time in the shadowed intial gully up from the lake, and even cut a few steps with our ice axes. The larger snowfield to the saddle was also firm, but climbable. We took the far right route on the rock climb, nice and exposed to the right! Some route descriptions say to go around to the south side of the mountain from the saddle, but the "headwall" right there at the saddle is not all that tough, and saves time.
Saw about a dozen goats on the snowfield to the east as we reached the east ridge just prior to the summit.
Posted Aug 26, 2006 4:03 pm

Karl HelserClimbing in Hell...  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jul 23, 2006

Karl Helser

88 deg at the summit at 10:30am. We left the TH at 6:30am so the snow stayed firm enough to stay on for the ascent up the gullies. We stayed in the mote most of the way down. The views were awesome most of the morning but afternoon they became very hazy. Saw the allusive marmot and an adult Mt goat with its kid.
Posted Jul 24, 2006 7:17 pm

thundercloudSnow Lake / The Roof  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 11, 2006


Nice clear morning, climbed with my pal casually as I was feeling quite miserable from possible slight food poisoning. Alone on the mountain until the descent when we passed a few folks. Slightly awkward move getting out of the chimney on the Roof route. Fun short mixed route. Possible thunderheads rolling in for the afternoon but we were back at the car at 1 PM and made a quick dash to nearest WC for relief.
Posted Jun 24, 2006 5:59 pm

thetathreesGreat day, for the most part!  Sucess!
Date Climbed: Jun 10, 2006


A steady rain at Sunshine campground led to the wonderful surprise of clear blue skies when we reached the trailhead. A bunch of avalanche lilies were blooming right at the trailhead and they were the last flowers we saw as the trail was all under several feet of snow. Once we reached Snow Lake and began the ascent, there were excellent steps kicked into the snow so we never needed our crampons. A lenticular cloud formed over Rainier as we approached Snow Lake, and was the first sign of the weather to come. As we approached the summit, clouds rolled in, obscuring our views of other peaks and Rainier. We were able to cross the moat at the top of the snowfield pretty easily, but it might be more difficult in a few weeks when some snow melts down as the walkup to it was pretty narrow (only about a foot and a half across). Once we all gathered at the top of the summit rock, hail and a "wintry mix" began to pelt us, so we rappelled down as quickly as possible and began our descent. Once we got off the summit and enjoyed loooong glissades down, it cleared up somewhat and we enjoyed more sun and warm temps. Excellent climb, not too difficult with a good mix of scenery and skills!
Posted Jun 12, 2006 11:20 pm

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