Via del Veterano

Overview

Via del Veterano is the longest sport climbing route of the Swiss canton Ticino / Tessin. The route is located above the small village of Freggio in the Valle Leventina. When driving north towards the Nufenen- or Gotthard pass from Italy, you'll see the big rock formation rising high above Freggio. The Gneis is very solid but due to the surrounding trees it can be wet. The route is exposed south.

Via del Veterano is a so called plaisir climbing route. The route isn't very difficult but it's lenght shouldn't be underestimated. The over 700 meters long route has 23 pitches. The obligatory difficulties are maximum 5.5 YDS/4b. Overall the route has enough bolts to leave your nuts/friends at home. Good climbers can take a variant wich has a few pitches up to 5.8 YDS/5c+. There is a possibility,
in case of bad weather or time problems, to leave the route halfway.

The route is very popular. Especially when the weather in the northern areas of the Alps is bad, many climbers head south to look for
sunshine. The short ascent, the escape possiblity and the well marked descent makes it even more popular. In order to enjoy the
route it is adviced to start early.

First ascent: Franz Anderrüthi, Sigi Bachmann and Paul Tschümperlin (1989)

Getting There

To Freggio, by car:
From south: drive north along the A2/E35 between Bellinzona and the Gotthard tunnel. Take driveway 43(Faido) and go to Faido on the Via Cantonale(2). Three kilometers after Faido turn right to Osco. Take the road up and reach Freggio after about three kilometers. There is a parking area at the church.
From north: drive south along the A2/E35 between the Gotthard tunnel and Bellinzona. Take driveway 42(Dalpe, Quinto, Ambrì-Piotta, Rodi) and go south on the Via Cantonale(2). After four kilometers turn left to Osco. Take the road up and reach Freggio after about three kilometers. There is a parking area at the church.

To Freggio, by public transport:
The nearest train station is Faido. From Faido you'll have to take the bus to Freggio. See External Links for timetables.

To Via del Veterano:
From the parking area at the church walk along the road and cross the village towards the clearly visible rock. Cross the village and take the path down towards a small river. Go up on a path before crossing the small river. Follow the path and cross the small river. Again, go up and reach the beginning of the route. The name is marked on the rock at the bottom of the first pitch. Freggio - Via del Veterano: about 25 minutes.

Route Description

Once you'll have reached the beginning of Via del Veterano the route is pretty easy to find. There are almost allways enough Anderrüthi bolts that will show you the right way. The route has a lot of traverses, some of them are pretty long! Some pitches are a bit grassy.

The normal route is sustained, but never very difficult. The variant is a bit more challenging and very well bolted. The last pitches are not very well protected, but very easy.

Via del Veterano: 4a, 2a, 3c, 3c, 5a, 4b, 3b, 4b, 5a, 4b, 5a, 3c, 3a, 5a, 3c, 3c, 4a, 4a, 3c, 3a, 3b, 4b

Variant of Via del Veterano: 4a, 2a, 3c, 3c, 5a, 4b, 3b, 4b, 5a, 4b, 5a, 3c, 5a, 3a, 5b+, 5c, 5c+, 2b, 4b, 3c, 3b, 3b, 4b.

Descent: after completing the last pitch climb up for about 80 meters through the forrest. There you'll find white markings on the trees that show you the way down.

Essential Gear and Guidebook

Essential Gear: Normal trad climbing gear. At least a 50 meter rope and 10 quickdrawns. No nuts/friends needed. As the route is exposed south and very long, be sure to have enough water with you!

Guidebook: Jürg von Känel, Schweiz Plaisir Sud (2003), ISBN 3-906087-17-4.

Schweiz Plaisir Sud

External Links

Digital map - www.mapplus.ch
Weather forecast - www.meteoschweiz.ch
Time schedule train - www.sbb.ch
Time schedule bus - www.postbus.ch
To order the Guidebook - www.filidor.ch

Images

View Via del Veterano Image Gallery - 7 Images